Cheesecake ? Easy Peasy!

Cheesecake? Where does it come from? What is its origins? 

Cheesecake has been enjoyed throughout the centuries, it is believed to have been served to the first Olympians in 776 BC!!

It is almost a worldwide phenomenon with variations everywhere. Cream cheese was created in the USA in 1872 , it was an attempt to re create the French cheese Neufchâtel . Various others similar cheeses were also created at this time. Depending where you are the choice of cheese for cheese cake varies. In the USA and Canada it is nearly always cream cheese, in Italy -Ricotta, in Germany, Holland and Poland it is Quark ( a cross between cream cheese and plain yoghurt) and in France , Neufchâtel . The way they are made also varies around the world, some are baked, some have a biscuit crust and some a pastry crust. Some are set ( using gelatine) and unbaked . Some, most, are sweet, but some are savoury , as in smoked salmon or goats cheese with beetroot. I asked my Japanese friend the other day, as I had seen in an American publication something called “Japanese Cheesecake”! She laughed and told me, No, No, No, we love cheesecake but it is not something we make ! Apparently Heston Blumenthal has declared that Cheesecake is an English invention, not sure where that came from, as far as I can see it was the Greeks!

So, onto yet another very very easy cheese cake, that has no base and is a cross between a cooked chocolate mousse and a cheesecake!

I used

  1. 12oz dark chocolate ( with about 70%cocoa butter)
  2. 9eggs separated , whites whisked until stiff
  3. 12 Oz full fat cream cheese, eg Philadelphia at room temperature
  4. Icing sugar for dusting and raspberries for decorating.

Use a 9″ Spring form pan, heat the oven to 170C/325F Mark3 on a gas oven. Grease the pan using a paper towel and some olive oil. Melt the chocolate either in a bowl over some boiling water or in a microwaveable bowl, in the microwave. If using the microwave, use a medium high setting, blast for one minute and check. When melting chocolate in a microwave, it is a bit odd, as although the chocolate might have melted, it still retains its shape. The look of the chocolate is the answer,mint is very shiny. DO not over heat. Stir to make it liquid and then beat in the softened cream cheese and then the egg yolks. Then carefully fold in the beaten egg whites, to fully incorporate them. Bake on the middle shelf for about 50 mins. It will probably have a crack on the top, but do not worry. Switch off the oven and leave the cheesecake in it, with the door open for about 20 mins and then remove and leave to cool. Unpan carefully using a pallet knife to help slide the cheesecake into a serving plate ( my spring pan is fibber on the outside with a ceramic bottom which also can serve, as a serving dish, makes life a little easier!) when cool decorate with icing sugar and raspberries, serve on its own or with vanilla ice cream! 

 
Be adventurous try using a milk chocolate for a lighter version or even white chocolate, quantities remain the same! Enjoy!!

Indian risotto ( Mushroom Kedgeree)

  I am currently on an Indian kick, so tonight it was a version of Kedgeree or it could be an Indian Risotto. The word kedgeree is an English variation on the Indian word Khichri, and it is supposed that the  colonial British brought the idea back from India, though there are records of it being in Britain, very much earlier than that. The traditional Britihs version usually contains smoked fish along with rice , hard boiled eggs, white fish and maybe shrimp or prawns. 

This version is made with lentils and rice with mushrooms.

For three people

  1. 100 grams yello or red lentils ( pigeon leas , toor dal,)
  2. 350 grams basmati rice
  3. 2+2 tabsp ghee or olive oil 
  4. 1 tsp cumin seeds toasted
  5. 1 onion sliced
  6. 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  7. 1tsp turmeric
  8. 750 mls  vegetable stock
  9. Salt to taste.

For the mushrooms

  1. 500 grams mushroom sliced not washed but cleaned with a mushroom brush.
  2. 4 tbs olive oil 
  3. 4 cloves garlic chopped 
  4. 1 tsp chilli flakes

Melt 2 tabsp ghee, add the cumin and toast/fry until it pops, add the garlic and the onion , sauté until soft but not brown. Stir in the lentils and the rice. Add the stock, turmeric and salt. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for about half an hour. Add more stock or water to keep it to a risotto consistency. When cooked switch off the heat and keep covered to keep hot.

Whilst the risotto is cooking heat the oil and add  the garlic, sauté until soft but not brown. Add the sliced mushrooms and the chilli flakes and stir until the all of the liquid generated by the mushrooms have been absorbed.. Add all to the rice/lentil mixture saving a few for garnish. Melt the remaining ghee. Plate the risotto and pour over some of the melted ghee and garnish with the remains mushrooms. 

 

Breakfast in London

On returning to London from Mexico City it was to a cupboard bare. So after a trip to the local supermarket followed by another trip to Church St. market, I thought I would treat himself to a Mexican treat for Sunday breakfast. So it was going to be Poched eggs with a chilli tomato sauce. As mentioned in my previous blog I created a recipe for this Mexican delight. However I added some extras, which included some sauteed chopped red peppers, mixed in with the canned tomatoes mixture and whizzed to a fine purée . The was heated and if it was too thick I diluted it with some water.

Instead of coriander, this time I used water cress ( which actually was perfect) . Again a soft poached egg ( or two) and some toasted sourdough bread.

Unfortunately , I do not have the chipped enamel bowls in which to serve the breakfast, maybe on my next trip to Mexico, I will be able to hunt done the bowls. Meanwhile, I served it in some old Japanese bowls. 

 

Breakfast in Mexico City

Breakfast in Mexico City is an interesting affair. It ranges from the street stalls that cater to the itinerate workers, who come into the city in their droves, often leaving their homes long before dawn to ride one of the many, rickety buses, down the crowded freeways to work. There are food stalls on every street corner, but none more so than the areas around the bus stations.So from Street Stalls to high end Hotels Breakfast can last the whole morning.

In the area known as Colonia Condesa there is an abundance of good middle of the road eating establishments. One of the new ones is Lardo and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and I have been there morning and night and not been disappointed.

On my last visit the slender blonde said that one of her favourite breakfasts was “Huevo pochados pimientos,epazote y verdolagas” so translated poached eggs with tomato pimento sauce, Mexican herbs and purslane. Epazote is an ancient Mexican herb with a distinctive flavour and used widely in Mexico and Central America , it is sometimes called Mexican Tea.  Purslane on the other hand originates in Central Asia, but has spread world wide. It grows just about everywhere, but I am not sure I have ever seen it growing, or if I did, I didn’t have a clue as to what it was. Many gardeners consider it a weed and a nuisance, as it goes to seed very quickly. But it is apparently rich in Omega 3, so maybe not so bad after all.

However, both of these ingredients are not readily available in the local grocery store, so I have come up with alternatives.For Epazote I have substituted some coriander and for the Purslane a few sprigs of watercress .

To make this sauce yourself, could take a little time and dedication, however there is a cheats version.

For two people take a can of chopped tomatoes with chillies, a large white onion chopped, a couple of chillies de seeded and chopped and a few sprigs of coriander. Sauté the onion and chillies together until soft, add the can of tomatoes and Wizz altogether to make a smooth sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning. 

My method of making poached eggs is simplicity itself. Boil some water in a pan with a dash of lemon juice, add the required number of eggs, carefully cracked , bring back to the boil, turn off the heat and leave for the whites to solidify. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon. If you like your yolks firmer then leave in the hot water for a while longer.

Heat the tomato sauce, pour into bowls add the newly poached eggs, top with a little sour cream and a sprig or two of watercress for garnish. Serve hot with freshly toasted sourdough bread! 

 

When is Mexican food Mexican? 

Mexican food is not Tex Mex! Having lived in Houston Texas for many years we were led to believe that Mexican food, is, what they served in such restaurants/diners such as Pappasitos Cantina, Gringos Mexican Kitchen or Ninfa’s on Navigation ( don’t you love the name, a really seedy part of town!) But as much as we enjoyed going to one of these, it was always the same, a huge amount of deep fried tortilla chips, with lashings of salsa and guacamole. Then for the main course, it was always a plate which included, refried beans ( think calories) Mexican rice, some salad, some tortillas and meat or fish of your choosing. I always ended up saying ” hold the rice and beans!”

Now however there is a new menace on the block, in the USA and the U.K. It is called Chipotle! Founded in the USA, it has now spread to Europe, including the UK. The one near me in London always has queues outside, especially at lunch time and I am not sure why! They market themselves as “Food with Integrity” , but Wikipedia reports that, MSNBC health .com rated it as one of the worse 20 , in the USA. It has had numerous serious outbreaks of various forms of food poisoning over the years, including E Coli, Salmonella and Novovirus ! And on top of that half of what they serve is not even Mexican ( Burritos and Tofu for example) oh, and one final note, each burrito is only about 1,000 calories! Which is even more than a Big Mac. !Steer clear is the message!

Here, in Mexico City, and not even in a high end restaurant but just a local one, it is much more refined and much better food. So we were at La Capitale, neighbourhood  restaurant, in an area called Condesa. 

Shrimp Tortillas
Pork Pibil ( pulled pork)
Guacamole, the colours represent the colours of the Mexican Flag

Tuna Tostadas
 we had tortilla chips with guacamole , tostadas with tuna, small tortillas with shrimp, pulled pork ( pubil) and some tortillas with fajitas ( arranchera) steak. Take a look!

The Year of the Monkey is upon us!

The Year of the Monkey is upon us!

This is Chinese New Year, which is also called Spirng Festival, it is the time of year that thousands of Chinese travel home to celebrate with their families, a bit like Thanksgiving in the USA, it is family time. Red envelopes filled with money are given to children, and unmarried couples!

The Chinese New Year, starts with the first day of the Lunar Calendar and lasts for 15 days, people wear new clothes ( including red underware ) worship ancestors, play MahJong and set off Fireworks. They also avoid many things during this period, avoid breaking dishes ( brings bad luck) do not empty the trash ( sweeping away good luck ) crying is bad luck, as is sweeping the floor and washing hair!

Food is very important during this period. Dumplings which originated over 1800 years ago, and there are also as many recipes as there are years.Spring rolls are also important as their shape represents a Ton of gold. Fish is most important, carp, catfish and West Lake fish. The West Lake in Hangzhou is The West Lake, which has been written about and drawn throughout the ages. Presumably being able to access fish from this lake must be top of anyone’s list for the Chinese New Year.

In Mainland China, there is very much a North South divide, when it comes to food. In the colder north, people eat Dumplings, Whet Noodles and Steamed buns, in the south, it is much more rice, rice noodles and lots of vegetables.

Much to the disgust of most Westerners, is the fact that the Chinese will eat anything that moves, and this includes, Dog, Rats, Insects,Scorpions,Snakes,Pigs Ears and chicken feet..

All food is cooked in bite size pieces as it is eaten with chop sticks, About 45 Billion Chop sticks are used each year and most of them are made out of bamboo. When travelling in China, watch the locals, before they use their Chopsticks, they rub them together. Why? To remove any splinters !!

So recently we were treated to a Chinese New Years Lunch. Taiwanese cuisine is influenced from mid to southern provinces of Mainland China, most notably from the province of Fujian (Hokkien), and also Japanese influence also exists due to the period when Taiwan was under Japanese rule.

Chinese stir-fry chicken with snow peas

  

Serves: 4

Ingredients

1 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 green onion leaves, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon ground ginger

3 cups (150g) snow peas

1 pound (500g) chicken breast, cut in thick pieces

Ingredients for the sauce

2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons white sugar

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon chicken stock powder

½ cup (1.2dl) water

Combine all the ingredients for the sauce in a jar and shake thoroughly., mix well with the chicken.

Begin by heating the oil in a wok or large skillet on high heat. The wok or skillet will be hot enough when the oil starts to smoke, (Test with a piece of dry bread. )Chinese stir-fry is cooked on an extremely high heat, so keep an eye on your stove to make sure nothing burns. All ingredients must be cooked until a bit tender but not brown.

When the oil is hot, add the garlic, green onion stems and ginger. Stir-fry for 1 minute.Set aside on a separate plate.

Add the snow peas and stir-fry for 3 to 5 minutes, until tender but not golden. Set aside on the same plate.
Drain the chicken but keep the sauce to one side.

Add the chicken breast and stir-fry until cooked through and golden. Set aside on the same plate.

Return all the vegetables and chicken to the wok, reduce heat to medium and pour sauce over the ingredients. Heat the chicken and vegetables through for 5-7 minutes until sauce thickens. If your sauce becomes too thick you can always add a bit more water to thin it out. Serve immediately when ready.

Another visit to L’Outa

Another visit to L’Outa, for the willowy brunette a birthday. I could say that at times she can possibly be a picky eater, but that would be unfair. She only eats good food,almost no rubbish,by her own admission she does not go out of her comfort zone as far as food is concerned, having said that, snails for example are a hit!

So once again, we had an amuse Bouche of the cream vegetable soup, again very acceptable . For our starters, the three of us chose a risotto , albeit three different ones. A risotto au fromage, a risotto with scallops and a risotto aux cepes. All arrived at the same time, all were perfect and all were al dente. And as they were three very different risottos, they had been cooked seperately.  

Risotto au fromage
  
Risotto with Scallops
  
Risotto aux Cepes
 

All three Risotto were served with a Parmesan crisp, which are very easy to make, but add a very nice finishing touch.
For mains, Himself chose the beef whilst the girls went for the Gambas, which I have to say were wonderful , having had ‘Food Envy’ on the previous week, I was very pleased to have chosen them this time round.

 

Filet of Beef au Jus, dauphinoise potatoes.
 
The birthday girl had the café gourmand, which although it was as copious as the previous week, it was in fact different, with a mini tarte au citron, a mini lemon meringue pie, some type of caramel pudding with a runny middle, a passion fruit mousse, a coated profiterole with chocolate filling and another with sorbet cassis, and a cookie! It also came with a birthday sparkler!

  It was a Thursday night and I did a head count, 40 people and a few extra tables around the corner, not bad, as it certainly does not cater for the average skier or tourist.

   
Come summer we will return. However I commented to Madame that they were not on Twitter, no, she replied but in the guide Michelin. A strange phenomomen , I looked up Guide Michelin, it directed me to the web site, which then promptly told me that as my app. account is UK based, I could not access it, but redirected me to the UK site. And Guess what the App is not available in the UK, Catch 22 I guess!

A fine dining restaurant in Les Gets!

Having said previously ( and several times) that here in the mountains, most restaurants serve, Ham, Cheese, Potatoes, cream and Charcuterie, and understandably , they cater to the tourists. However we do not consider ourselves, tourists ?semi residents, if you like, as we even get resident discounts on the ski lifts .

So, there is one restaurant that fits the bill, as being not the usual run of the mill and it is L’Outa, in Les Gets. When we first saw the restaurant, we thought it to be a very smart antique shop, refined old pine fittings and soft lighting. But we were wrong, it is a lovely  smallish restaurant, with about 30 covers. It also has a wine bar, ( yet to be tried) and a salon de thé ( also yet to be tried) . It is owned and run by Jaqueline and Phillipe François ( I think he could be the chef), she is the front of house and head waiter, and slightly dotty. One time when we called, to ask if they were open, Madame responded, oh I don’t know, call again in the morning ( I have to admit it was out of season). So we have been there now, several times, both winter and summer and out of season . In the summer we eat outside in the garden and in the winter of course inside where it is warm and cosy , we have never been disappointed.

So, we went again, with new acquaintances,( she being French, him English) who had not been before and hopefully they will return.  

The interior of L’Outa
So
we chose, between us, a soup du jour, which was creamy winter vegetable with a cream and lard chantilly, Lard? Yes whipped cream mixed with lard! Spends awful, but in fact I would never had guessed that ingredient, on a blind tasting test!
winter vegetable soup with cream and lard chantilly
  a scallop risotto and escargot served in a small casserole with fois gras and  chanterelles. 

Risotto with Scallops

snails, with fois gras and chanterelles
  All of which were excellent . We were actually served a tiny portion of the soup as an amuse Bouche,  so we all had the chance to sample it. For mains, three of us went for monkfish, which again was very good indeed, but I think I have to admit to having food envy,
when I saw the Gambas arrive. 

The wonderful looking Gambas

Monkfish with vegetables
  I am hoping they will still have that on the menu, when we go again next week! No room for dessert except, our young skinny friend who chose  the Café Gourmand, which was more than enough for two and her husband duly helped out. 

The Café Gourmand! enough for 2
 So chatting to Madame before leaving, she said,  “bones vacances” I informed her that our young friends worked here! Oh she replied that is why she speaks such good French! I am French, was the reply! But Madame was nonplussed by this! Of course, as I said she is a bit dotty! But very nice all the same!

Tarte au Fromage d’Abondance

Tarte au Fromage d’Abondance

Here in the heart of Les Portes du Soleil on the Swiss/ French Alps border, is the town of Morzine, which, was  one of the pioneering ski areas of the  1930’s. A pretty enough town mostly built on the surrounding hills overlooking the town with views up to Avoriaz, a purpose built resort with ski areas up to 2,400 m. From the distance  the resort blends well into the rocks and mountain but close up it is really quiet ugly.

Back to Morzine, these days it is more than a ski resort, hosting in the summer “Harley Days” where the town is swamped by about 3,000 Harley riding bikers, the Tour de France and do not forget the hordes of mountain bikers, who use the ski lifts ( which have been adapted) to get up the mountains with their  bikes, only to descend at break neck speeds, looking more like Darth Vader, than humans. It is not unusual to see,  people hobbling around in casts and on crutches in winter and summer alike.

Morzine is close to Geneva, and hence is accessible to many Europeans and especially the Brits! A whole industry has arisen to cater to them, from catered chalets, to laundry services, to builders, to real estate agents and even to a Tesco delivery service! Restaurants abound, serving predominately mountain food and of course pizza. Chalets give their staff one night a week ‘off duty’ and so the guests descend upon the restaurants en mass. As I have said before Mountain food is  variations on a theme, cheese, ham, cream, charcuterie, including Cheese fondue, cheese raclette ,  croute au fromage, platters of charcuterie, etc etc. However one restaurant we we do frequent above others, is La Grange in the center of Morzine itself. It is run by a young Anglo French couple, Alex and Fred. They have been open for about 8 years and so far so good. When we visited the other night, a Tuesday, we were amazed at how busy they were. One party of about 20 walked in whilst we were there. I think they must have had 100+ covers that evening. As with most restaurants their menu is for serving the tourists , so lots of chees, ham , charcuterie and cream. However, they do have other offerings, such as local lake fish, wild boar stew, steak and salmon trout from the local Ardoisières valley fish farm. Sometimes, they do a very good Steak Tartare, though sadly not that often.

The one thing that we really enjoy when going there is the Tarte au Fromage d’Abondance. Abondance is a ‘ controlled named ‘ cheese from the Savoy region.It is made from semi skimmed milk and made into 10 kilo rounds. It is a very similar cheese to Gruyere but has a buttery, nutty flavour. It is semi hard and melts very nicely, which makes it ideal for cooking and can also be a substitute for Raclette cheese.. Here in the Savoy , it costs between 11€ and €18 a kilo, but in the UK it can cost as much £35( la Fromagerie in Marylebone for example). So I have been experimenting in making this delicious Tart. And it is not a quiche. 

The lovley Cheese from Abondance

 So to make this tart, you need enough pastry to line a quiche pan, I used a 12″ pan and pastry using 8 Oz flour you can use your favourite recipe or even buy some ready made, but not any type of puff pastry.

  1. 500 grams grated abondance cheese
  2. 4 large eggs
  3. 200 MLS Crème Fraiche
  4. Salt and pepper to taste.
  • Method 

Roll out the pastry, thin enough to line a quiche pan, but not too thinly. Trim the top edge and   prick the bottom of the pastry to prevent it from rising. Line the pastry with some baking paper. Fill this with some form of baking beans. You can buy ceramic baking beans but you can use rice, noodles, dried peas ,beans etc. 

the pastry lined with paper and anssortment of cereamkc beans, rice and noodles

 Bake at 200 C for about 15 mins only so just a little pre baking. Remove from oven and remove the paper and beans. Whilst the pastry is in the oven , whisk together the eggs and the Crème Fraiche . Season with a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Spread the grated cheese over the pastry case evenly and spoon over the egg Crème mix. 

The finished Tart

 Return to the oven and bake for about 45 mins until the top is a golden brown. Remove from oven and leave to cool a little. It is best served warm but not hot. Could be served with some buttered new potatoes or a simple green salad.

What annoys an Oyster?

As I have said before, our normal Christmas dinner, is not normal, and is perhaps not for everyone, as in principle I do not cook on Christmas Day . And this for someone, who just has to cook, is a bit of an oddity. However, Number one son and his bride also love to cook. NBG is more of a cook and Mrs. G  # 7 ( I have lost count, so numerous are we) is more of a baker. So they complement each other well.

 

Oysters Rockefeller

 So off to market I went and returned with 4 dozen oysters and it was decided to make Oyster Rockefeller , NBG got to grips with the shucking and cleaning of the shell, ( so no bits of shell were left with the oysters…….. Very Master Chef here). Actually Mrs. G7 commented that she had never heard of Oysters Rockefeller until  she watched ” Master Chef, The Professionals” ( British Version, ) when one of the Skills test was to make them, one of the classics that these chefs, need to know.  

Traditional shucking equipment

 Researching all things Oysters, I came up with as many variations of Oysters Rockefeller as there are cookery books on Oysters. For Starters, it is claimed that the original was created by a chef working in Antoines restaurant in New Orleans, Louisiana, in the late 1900’s.Someone,dining there declared that they were as rich as Rockefeller!  Not surprising really as a) New Orleans is on the Gulf coast of the USA, where Oysters, Shrimp ( read very large ones) , Crawfish and Soft shell crabs abound, and b) the home of good food in the USA, or should I say rich food, not necessarily all good, lots of fried food, but having said that, Oyster Po-Boys are one of my favourites.

So back to Oysters Rockefeller , the version outed on British master chef included  a small shallot, cream, nutmeg and egg yolks. Others include chopped celery, bell peppers, spring onions, parsley, dry breadcrumbs, bacon, watercress, herbs such as marjoram, basil, black pepper, Herbsaint, Tabasco  and Worcestershire sauce. The three things that they have in common, are onions ( normal, shallots, or Spring ) spinach and of course Oysters!

The master chef version simmered the oysters in their juices for a very short period of time, though looking in my Louisianan books I find nothing of this, but as I have said, there are many options here.

So I would allow  ( for four people) 4-6 oysters per person,

  •  3 green onions chopped,   4 tablespoons butter, plus 4 0z soft butter, 
  • 1/2 pkt frozen spinach, ( defrosted and well drained) of course you can use fresh but you will have to cook and drain it before use.   
  •     2 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs, I try to use the Japanese Panko breadcrumbs ( available in good grocery stores and Asian food markets,)
  • Some bacon pieces cooked until crisp and cut into bits
  • Dash of Tabasco and 1/4 tsp Worcestershire sauce.
  • Some grated Parmesan ( optional)

Shuck the oysters, and clean the shells and make sure you have removed any bits of shell. Traditionally, an oyster knife is used along with a thick rubber glove or even better a steel mesh one ( as in suit of armour) as the last thing you want to do is to slice into the palm of your hand. However help is at hand for the more novice ” shucker”! I found a little device which is cheating but works well. I found it for about £3 in a fish shop, so if you love oysters , look out for one of these, no chance of ripping your hand apart here ( instructions come on the label)

 

The Cheats way to shuck an Oyster
 Melt the 4 tabs butter and sauté the onions, add the spinach and cook for a minute or two to heat through. Add the breadcrumbs,bacon,Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce. Mix in the rest of the butter.Taste and adjust the seasoning to your taste. 

Arrange the oysters shells on a baking tray so that they do not tip over. Put the oysters in the shells and put a teaspoon of filling on each and top with the grated Parmesan ( if using). Bake for 10 mins @ 450F/230C/Mark 8. Serve piping hot with warm crusty French bread.

Eldest daughter was eating oysters at the age of two, though I have to admit that she promptly threw up, but Hey Ho, she loves them now. Have not tried them on her brood as yet, though I suspect that” Truly Scrumptious” would love them. It is a pity that in the UK they are now fairly expensive, once upon a time they were the food of the poor, but now? Another joy of Oysters is that they can be grilled over charcoal and will open by themselves! Joy!And Enjoy!