Hello Belgium

I think possibly that the average person doesn’t think of Belgium as being a gourmet destination, but how wrong they would be. For me it is the Frites capital of the world ( despite Arras, France holding a World Frites contest). Frites ( French fries, Chips) stands are on almost every street corner , but Belgium is far more than that. There are more Michelin starred restaurants per capita in Belgium than there are in France!

So for today I’m going to showcase a specialty from Ghent. ( Gent in Dutch or Gand in French) why the difference? Because Belgium despite being a small country, has 3 official languages ( French, Dutch and German)and many dialects. Ghent is the third largest city in Belgium ( behind Bruxelles and Antwerp) , is the capital of East Flanders. Basically they speak Flemish, which by all accounts is an offshoot of Dutch ( but don’t say that to a Flemish speaking Belgian).

Belgium, or what we know as Belgium was occupied by various nations, including Celts, Romans, Spanish, Austrians, Dutch and Germans. It became a country in its own right in 1830.

Today, it is a cosmopolitan country with Bruxelles as its capital, where almost ( by necessity) everyone speaks several languages, but having said that there are tensions between the regions. The poorer French speaking Walloons, consider themselves more aristocratic and intellectually superior to the Flemish and Dutch speakers of Flanders. And don’t forget the German speaking region in the east. Given its location at the crossroads of European countries and cultures it is of little surprise to find that its cuisine has developed over centuries into something that is a bit from here and a bit from there, but something that is also distinctly Belgian.

We lived in Belgium for 13 years, our first daughter was born there,in a hospital named after the World War One, British nurse Édith Cavell, who was shot by the Germans. Belgium is a relatively small country where houses sell on average once every 51 years. Why move, when going out to lunch with family is never more than a quick drive away.

Going out for lunch, in-fact tends to be just that Going Out, a bit like in the French tradition La Grande Bouffe ( a big feast), is eaten at lunch on a Sunday, a meal that can last for hours with the family gathered around. Bakeries abound and it has been said that the Belgian housewife prefers to buy her dessert from the bakers than to make it herself.

All cuisines are found readily in Belgium, but rightly so they are proud of their own specialities. Leek and Potato soup ( Belgians love leeks), creme of Endive soup, and Chervil Soup are three of the most popular soups. Marinated Herrings ( roll mops ) are popular with rye bread, and oh hearty tomatoes stuffed with the most wonderful grey shrimps ( tomates aux Crevettes grises) mussels in all shapes and forms and vol au vents filled with a chicken fricassée .Waffles, pancakes dumplings, fish galore and even eels. Game and poultry, including rabbit, venison , beef stewed in beer, blood sausages, not for the faint hearted.

And did we mention BEER! There are over 300 breweries in Belgium and the average Belgian drinks over 60 litres each per year! Wheat beers, fruit beers, strong beers, even Vegan beers ,CHIMAY, LEFFE, JUPILAR, HOEGARDE, MORT SUBITE, DUVAL, TRAPPIST to name just a few.

But onwards, to a very classic Belgian meal. Waterzooi! Meaning boiled in water, is an ancient soup or stew, originating in Ghent. Previously always made with fish ( fish from the canals and rivers surrounding the city ) , but nowadays more often or not made with chicken. I have to admit, Chicken stewed in water doesn’t sound very appealing , but wait, by the time the onions,garlic, herbs, vegetables, egg yolks, and cream have been added, it is a delight.

Once upon a time, I would make it for any visitors to Belgium, until one year, when I explained to one of my sisters in law, the origins of Waterzooi, she said “ I know, you made it last time we came ! Oops ! However I made it the other weekend for the first time in years, and in fact within the last two weeks, I have made it twice! Once with chicken and once with fish, but now will probably not make it again for another year ! Traditionally, a whole chicken is used, boiled with herbs, but honestly who like chicken skin and bones! So for ease I always use chicken breast.

  • For 4-6 people
  • 1 1/2 kilos of chicken breast , cut into chunks or use an assortment of fish
  • Chicken stock/ vegetable stock or even white wine , enough to cover the meat
  • 3 Oz unsalted butter
  • 4+ cloves garlic crushed
  • 4 carrots peeled and chopped
  • 3 white onions peeled and sliced
  • 2 baby leeks, cleaned and sliced
  • 3 sticks white celery chopped
  • 8 smallish potatoes quartered
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 300 mls double cream
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Juice of one lemon
  • Fresh parsley or coriander for garnish

Very simply cook the chicken in the liquid that you choose, until cooked. Remove and put to one side. Pour your stock into a jug and put to one side as well.

Clean the pan, melt the butter and sauté the vegetables ( not the potatoes) until tender. Add the reserved stock and the potatoes and simmer until the potatoes are tender.

Mix the egg yolks with the cream, and pour over the vegetable mix. Add the chicken and heat for about 5 minutes until the chicken is hot but don’t let it boil. Season, add the lemon juice and garnish with the parsley/ coriander.. Serve immediately!