Simon Rogan, who has several restaurants, one here in London, plus his experimental kitchen and a couple in the Lake District, Roganic, Aulis, London and L’Enclume and Rogan &Co both in Cartmel, the Lake District.

Since the Coronavirus lockdown both he and his executives have taken a 100% pay cut whilst those further down the pay scale are still getting their salary! And in the meantime, the cooks and chefs are still working, providing meals daily at a minimal cost to the locals in Cumbria. That way is certainly a win win situation.

We have eaten at both of the London establishments, Roganic ( Marylebone) one day for lunch and in September en famille at Aulis, the experimental kitchen in Soho. This was an experience in itself and would willing go there again, any takers out there to join us? It only takes 8 people and as we were 7 we had the place to ourselves.

Although I will never cook like the restaurants there is no harm in getting inspiration from them. I bought his book called funnily enough ROGAN and did indeed get inspiration for this fish ( thank you ISH FISH) dish we had for dinner.

In French Cooking there is a sauce ( not really a sauce) called Beurre Noisette. It is heating butter until the milk solids turn brown , hence you can not make this with Ghee as the milk solids have been removed. There is nothing more delicious than Dover Sole with Beurre noisette, ( well maybe Dover Sole with Beurre Noisette and topped with little brown shrimps).

With Simon Rogans recipe, one actually uses the Beurre Noisette to cook the fish.

So simply put, heat about 3-4 oz butter ( half a packet) in a heavy pan and cook until it foams, reduce the heat and cook ( but keep an eye on it, you done want it to burn) for about 10 minutes until it is a very dark brown colour.

It will be very hot, leave to cool somewhat and strain to remove and discard the milk solids. reheat the butter and having dried your fish gently place it in the butter and cook gently for about 15 minutes, skin side down.

You will see when the fish is cooked as the tip side will be white and not translucent. Remove from pan and drain on kitchen paper. Serve with what ever grabs your fancy ( or whatever is left in you store cupboard, or refrigerator.

Today, I found in the refrigerator ( well not found exactly, I knew it was there) a cauliflower. So the question was, what was I going to do with it? Just plain old cauliflower, a cauliflower cheese? A cheesy and ham cauliflower cheese? Not any of them excited me.

I often make what I call, Refrigerator Soup. This is normally made when we are about to embark on a trip and there are perishables which need to be used, but I could do something similar here. How about a curry? That spurred me on, I looked in many books, looked online and in the end concocted a curry of no specific region. It ended up with a little bit of this and little bit of that, but I think the end result was not bad.

I started out by heating some oil, in a heavy casserole, added some spices, ( Garam masala, turmeric, caraway seeds, curry powder, chilli flakes , fenugreek, coriander and cardamom salt and black pepper ) cooked this for a couple of minutes, then added finely chopped onion, garlic and ginger, and chopped fresh chillies. ( sometimes I go to the local ethnic market and buy a Job Lot of chillies, chop them up, bag them and freeze them so I always have a store of chillies.) Next was the cauliflower cut into small florets, 2 cans of chopped tomatoes , a courgette cut into chunks, likewise some carrots, some celery and some leeks, along with a couple of small potatoes.Oh, and a few sliced mushrooms as well !

A small can of coconut cream followed, along with some dried coconut and I let it simmer until the vegetables were tender. Then I found in the back of the refrigerator a bag of rocket, the front half new and crisp, the back half a bit frozen, that became chopped rocket and into the pot. Next was the spinach, there was nothing wrong with that at all, but just it’s time had come, and there were a couple of limes that needed using or losing so in they went as well. So that is tonight’s dinner sorted, not sure Himself will go much on a vegetarian curry, we shall see!

All I all a successful use of theming s that needed using. Maybe I do not have any right to call it a curry, but it tastes like curry and although it may not make the menu of Indian Accents ( Michelin star) , it certainly fits the bill.

And maybe, just maybe, this will now in the future be called Refrigerator Curry !

Another week, it is a lot colder today, but at least the sun is still shining. I was productive yesterday, replenishing his stock of cake! He should be so lucky, never before have I made so much cake. The problem is I keep having clementines that are in the category, “Use them or Lose them”, and not wishing to lose them , clementine cake it is ( again. ) I have actually cooked and processed and frozen about 4 lots, which are now waiting for a future date with the oven. As I also had some lemons, which were crying out to be used, this became a Clementine and Lemon cake, and I have just tried some and I like it ( I’m not really a cake eater).

Tonight for dinner we are going to have a Cheese Soufflé, For this I use my favourite cheese, which is Abondance. This I bring back from France where it is considerably cheaper than here, €16 a kilo or £39 in the Cheese  Shop in Marylebone. Cheese freezes on the whole fairly well, so at the end of each summer I bring some back and freeze it.

A cheese soufflé is very easy to make, and although every recipe says a soufflé dish,  there are several substitutes that can be used. a Ceramic or Le Creuset casserole or, if it is not too big, a pyrex round casserole, so before rushing out and buying a special dish try using something that you already have first, and then if you like soufflé, by all means go and buy the real McCoy.

100 grms butter

• 2 tabs corn starch
• 1 tsp english mustard powder ( I now this sounds a lot but you really do need it)
• 300 ml milk
• 200 grms of a strong cheese of your choice, grated
• 6 Large eggs, separated, whites whisked until stiff

Heat the oven to 200 C /180C fan or Gas 6.

Grease your soufflé dish.

Melt the butter in the microwave , when melted add the cornstarch ( flour), mustard and milk,  mix well and return to microwave for a couple of minutes, stir again and then again until the mixture is very thick. ( if it goes lumpy, just beat with a whisk). Stir in the cheese and then the egg yolks.

Carefully stir the egg whites into the cheese mixture until thoroughly mixed in, spoon into the dish and bake in the middle shelf of the oven for about 50 mins, until the top is golden brown.

Serve immediately with a salad.

Himself was in charge of dinner last night. We decided that Saturday was to be “His” day, as Sunday is spent creating his story for the three, ex- Mexican grandchildren. He loves telling them bedtime stories and when they come to stay that is the highlight for him at least of the day. And I do think they also enjoy it.

So now we are all in Lockdown, they send in their characters in advance, so this week, we have a princess, a cat which is a psychiatrist and a giant whose head smokes when he thinks too hard!

We also have on Sunday, the neighbourhood cocktail party , and this week, we were a group of six apartments, each of us on our respective terraces.

And so back to his dinner for Saturday. He actually woke up and declared that he wanted to make Waterzooi.

What on earth is that I hear you ask, well it is one of the traditional dishes of Belgium, a country where we lived for thirteen years. It originated apparently in Ghent, which is in Flanders, the Flemish speaking part of Belgium. ( As an aside, did you know that Belgium, which is a very small country, has 3 official languages, French, in the south, Flemish in the north and German in the east. , with very strict divisions and Bruxelles, the capital is where all three are acceptable. And of course everyone speaks excellent English as well.)

Waterzooi ( ˈʋaːtərˌzoːi̯ )can be made with fish/ seafood or chicken and all versions are based on a soup-base mixture of egg yolk, cream and thickened vegetable broth.

Turbot was the original fish of choice, but nowadays any firm fish along with shrimp are used in the fish version but one is just as likely to find on a menu one made with chicken.

Himself made the chicken version.

1. Any of the following, all finely sliced, 1 celery stalk, 1carrot, 1 onion, 1 leek we also added some courgette and some asparagus tips, not traditional but we had them to hand.
2. 200 mls vegetable stock, a stock cube or powder will do,
3. 1egg yolk
4. +/-500gms chicken breast ( traditionally a whole chicken would be used and then cut into bits )
5. 300 mls cream, single, double whatever takes your fancy
6. 300 mls white wine ( or left over bubbles)
7. 2 oz butter
8. 2 oz or 2 heaped tablespoons Cornstarch for thickening
9. 2 cloves garlic smushed
10. Watercress/ rocket to garnish
11. Salt and pepper to taste

Cut the chicken into bite size pieces and cook for about 10 mins in the stock. Remove and put to one side, cook the vegetables, and garlic also in the stock but only for about 5 mins, as they need to be crispy. Remove and put to one side. In a separate pan, melt the butter and stir in the cornstarch to make a paste, slowly pour in the stock and keep stirring so that you do not get any lumps.

Beat the egg yolk into the cream and then slowly add the cream to the stock mixture. Slowly bring to the boil and whisk until it thickens.

Add the cooked chicken and vegetables, cook just long enough so that everything is heated through.

Can be served with crusty bread or with as we did potatoes and green beans ( and some Belgian Beer)

Today, Himself is on duty , but as it is Easter I decided to make Hot Cross Buns. I have never made them before and as M and S at Marble Arch has them in stock, I could have bought them, but I didn’t! Actually I don’t even really like them but never mind, on with the the task in hand.

I checked out the ingredients, had the sourdough starter ( and more frozen) had the bread flour, albeit wholemeal, had eggs and butter and spice, oh but hang on, dried mixed fruit and dried peel ! Oops no! But wait a moment I’ve just discovered a way of using up my jar of mincemeat from 2017! Actually by law these days all food items have to have some sort of date on them even items that do not go “OFF” like mincemeat, Christmas cakes and puddings and Worcestershire sauce.

I rarely throw foods away, fresh things like meat and fish I’m very careful with and pop them into the freezer before they have a chance of going bad, but other things such as jams, vinegars, worcestershire sauce, tabsco etc. they are fine!

I found a jar of mincemeat which is basically dried fruit and peel and brandy and so I heaped a couple of tablespoons of it into my bread mix..

 

Today, Friday is the designated Family themed dinner. Last week # 1 daughter, the willowy blond and family did a Mexican themed dinner, they had a plus point on this, as they had lived there for about 5 years. NickinLaw has the most marvellous Mariachi suit, # 1 daughter looks the part of Frida Kahlo, the famous Mexican artist, and #1 granddaughter is perfect as her side kick, #1 grandson, as a Mexican wrestler, in Luce-Libre, whilst the youngest, who actually has a Mexican passport, decided to be a Princess, as of course they do have princesses in Mexico.

Not to be outdone, we planned our dinner tonight to be a “Go Texan” night. Texas, half believes itself to be in essence Mexican, well to be honest they think that their version of Mexican food is the way forward, but it is not. The food in Mexico, is superb, whereas, after 9 years of living in Texas, I think that Texas has a lot to learn. However,  they do make good Margaritas, hamburgers, Barbequed Brisket and the like. Every year ( but not this year for obvious reasons,) the Houston Lifestock and Rodeo is a really big deal. There really are Cowboys, whose sole job is to go form rodeo to rodeo and the hope of winning big money rising the bulls, and if you have ever seen the film ” Midnight Cowboy” then you will get a taste for Texas. And Yes you can practice riding a bull, on a mechanical one as seen in the film at a place called Gilleys ( sadly no more) and yes the men do dance with a beer bottle stuck in their jeans back pockets !

But Number one daughter and family went even better, and had an Indian theme.

I can see we will really have to try harder next week ( but where were the others?? Umm don’t know)!

However, here are some tips on making The Perfect Guacamole and The Perfect Margarita.

There are many versions of Guacamole, and I have tried them all, but this one i think is the best and comes courtesy of Ella Canta, and upscale Mexican, in the Intercontinental on Park Lane London.

• one white onion, finely chopped
• 2 small limes squeezed
• 1 small bunch of fresh coriander finely chopped
• 1 chilli finely chopped, salt to taste.
• 2 small ripe avocado

Simply chop the onion and leave it to soak in the lime juice, can be for an hour or more. When ready to eat, smush the avocado and mix it with the lime juice, onion, coriander and salt. Oh so easy and Oh so tasty. left overs can be refrigerated.

Margaritas, again there are many versions, most with Cointreau, and in Texas lots of ice and even frozen, but I think that this is the best.

• 4 Tbsps Tequila
• 3 Tbsp fresh squeezed lime juice
• 2 Tbsps some form of sugar syrup, even runny honey would work, your choices are, Corn syrup ( American, ) Agave syrup ( Mexican)
• 4 Tbsps, ice cold water
• some salt to trim the rim of the glass, if wished.

Simply combine the ingredients and serve ice cold. You could make a small jug of the mix, keep in the refrigerator for seconds.

 

Today, I decided that as I have the time, I could sort out photographs. And what a mammoth task that is turning out to be. Several years ago, I embarked upon such a mission and got through a pile ( 1969- 1998 ) to be precise. That was probably before it was possible to make photo-books online, and now they have to be of a reasonable quality to be able to do that. There are so many, that I no longer know the people in them nor the places where they were taken. This calls for serious culling.

One thing I did cull earlier on, in this enforced,”Stay at Home” was my cookery books. Cookery like all things fashion changes. Remember Nouveau Cuisine, that didn’t last for long but at least it was a good change, as gone were the  heavy  French dishes that dominated the culinary world. At that time British Cuisine was a bit of a laughing stock, especially for the French, but that has all changed, our cooking is up there with the best.

I no longer have scraps of paper, lying in files, waiting to be tried and tested, my recipes, and ideas all have their own Ipad, I use it solely as a filing system, and so when I see something that I really want to try out one day, I scan it in and file it. Of course that doesn’t mean that don’t get behind with the filing bit, I do, but plane rides is a good way to catch up.

One of my recent additions is Salmon with with Anchovy, Chilli and Caper butter. Simplicity in itself. So once again, thanks to the guys at ISH Fish, here is todays rendition.

Simply take your salmon, pat dry with paper towel. ( I then sprinkled some Sumac on the fish). Heat some oil, butter or better still Ghee in a heavy pan ( I always use my ancient cast iron frying pan, especially as it works very well on an induction stove top). When the fat is hot place the salmon in it SKIN SIDE DOWN and leave to cook, cover with either a splatter guard or some kitchen towel as it will spit. Just leave until it is obvious that it is cooked through. Meanwhile make the butter, by smushing a tin of anchovies, I do it in a Pestle and Mortar, along with some chilli paste and some soft butter, mix well together. Don’t like Anchovies? you will be surprised it is difficult to taste them here, but try doing it with garlic and herbs instead.

I served it with grilled asparagus, I like cooking them on my stove top grill, which is also ancient, or if I am cooking a lot of them, I am lucky enough to have Teppenyaki grill in the kitchen so I sue that, but wither way grilled is the way forward, they keep their colour and remain crunchy

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Today, I decided to embark upon, mask making, prototype Mark three, only to be thwarted by the lack of a foot! A special foot for my sewing machine, a walking foot to be precise. Now it is many years since I taught needlework, but have never heard of, let alone possessed a Walking Foot. That is about to change, as thank you Amazon, one is on order.

Being thwarted by a missing foot, I embarked upon lights for the terrace, what with mine now a glowing and those of neighbours across the void, one could be forgiven in thinking that it is Christmas, instead of April, but Hey Ho, it cheers us all up.

For dinner today, I made risotto. Risotto, is something I love to make but almost never eat, I just think of all those calories!

One of the keys to making good risotto, is choosing the right type of rice. They are always Italian, and the most common and easiest to find is Arborio, and the second is Carnaroli. Short-grain rice has a high starch content and tends to absorb less liquid, resulting in a stickier, more compact risotto.So never wash your rice beforehand, as you do not want to be washing the starch down the sink. One of my “Go To ” places for Carnaroli rice was Carluccios, which sadly is no more.

For one or two people you will need:-

1. 1/2 large onion finely chopped
2. Couple cloves garlic smushed or chopped
3. 1cup/225 gems Risotto rice
4. 25 grams and then 150 grams butter ( I always use unsalted)
5. 100 mls, white wine or bubbles if you have some left over
6. About 250 mls stock or water, you might need more, this is a bit of a guessing game
7. Small amount olive oil
8. Pinch salt
9. 100 grams ( more or less) grated Parmesan cheese.
10. I used about 3 oz of mushrooms which I cooked

• Heat the oil in your pan and add the onion and garlic until soft and translucent, do not try to do this quickly otherwise it will be brown and a bit burnt.
• Add the rice and stir and basically let it get hot but not coloured, stir.
• Add some of the wine, it will sizzle, stir well and when all the liquid is absorbed, add more, and stir. Keep doing this until the wine is used.
• THE MAGIC BIT
• Risotto needs a lot of standing and stirring ( it would suit Himself and # 2 daughter as they love to stir) but can be a bit of a pain, standing stirring for about 30 minutes or so. Therefore chefs, devised this method. After the initial adding of liquid, tip the rice out onto a baking tray and leave, you can cover, it when cool with a cloth or cling room, for hygiene sake but not necessary.
  

  

  
• About 15-20 mins before serving, return the rice to the pan, heat up and continue to add liquid ( either vegetable stock or water ) and stir. Test the rice, after this time, by nibbling a grain or two. It should be firm to the bite, but not crunchy.
• Stir in the rest of the butter and most of the Parmesan. Add the mushrooms if using. Taste, adjust seasoning and serve, with a sprinkle of cheese ( you can always have a bowl of Parmesan on the side) garnish with some greenery.
  

  

  

After an early morning march around The Regents Park, we settled into what has become our daily routine , breakfast , a Times crossword ( are they getting harder , or are we just more incompetent than usual? Then onto Jigsaw, the one we are working on currently is the Temperate House at Kew Gardens! But the next one arrived yesterday, that will have to wait! After that, disperse to do our own thing, until coffee break time !

But, I am LATE! Got carried away with Housework !

Today, was another “Recycling ” day of food that is, after all, I can’t keep making all of these dishes and just freeze them. So wonderful cheese tart has almost gone, time to move on.

Consequently as I didn’t cook as such last night I have yet another easy recipe for you. A take on fish and chips!

Fish, I love fish and to my mind the simpler the better. When we lived in Houston at Papas seafood restaurant the “Server” Jack or Joe or Darryl or Chelsea, would start by reciting the days Specials. ” Today’s special is baked flounder, stuffed with jalapeños, onions and celery, topped with crab meat mixed with cheese, smothered with a butter cream sauce with a touch of bourbon and Tabasco. You think I’m joking, well I’m not! Consequently, I would then reply, can I have it just plain and grilled please ! There was always a look of astonishment, when we declined the “Specials”. And do not get me started on Doggy Bags! Upon looking into the average American households refrigerators and you will be greeted with half eaten hamburgers or soggy salad, which they should have just left in the restaurant, but No the general consensus is, ” I’ve paid for it and so I’m taking it home !

Moving swiftly along to Fish and chips, or just Fish if you prefer.

1. Mix together the following, a pinch each of salt and pepper, 1 tabsp of paprika, 1tsp mixed herbs, 1 tsp chilli powder, and any other spices that take your fancy. I like Harissa or sumac, both available from middles eastern shops.
2. 150 grams each of fine polenta and flour.
3. Several pieces of chunky bits of fish, cod, haddock etc

Cut the fish into thick fingers. Mix the spices with the flour and the polenta.

Heat some oil in a deep but not too large a pan. Swish the fish in a small amount of milk and then again in the flour mix.

When the oil is hot enough ( test by dropping in a piece of stale bread, if it sizzles straight away, then it is ready). Careful drop the fish in batches into the hot oil and fry for 3 minutes. Drain on paper towel, repeat with all the fish and then refry, for another 3 minutes so that the fish is golden and crispy.

If you want to be really posh but also lazy, serve with some fake Rouille, that French pink mayo.

Just add a squirt of tomato paste, some harissa, a squirt of lemon juice into shop bough mayonnaise! Maybe not quite the same but near enough.

Serve the fish ( with or without Chips) and use the Rouille for dipping.

Moving on from last nights extravaganza, cocktail party, story time for three grandchildren and Himself cooking dinner and dessert , here we are Monday, Monday , who remembers the Mamas and Papas singing this song? I certainly do.

So Monday, traditionally a wash day but not in this household, but we decided that maybe Monday should be a kind of household chore type day. Himself decided that the silver needed cleaning and three hours later it was done, brilliant. He has far more stamina than myself, I would have given up after a mere 30 minutes, only having to restart the following day. (But who needs all this silver anyway ?)

Me? I cleaned upstairs, made himself some lunch and did some needlepoint ( for Miss Molly) then time for exercise, then scrabble and a G and T ( for the quinine you understand) and then time to cook dinner.

I was prepared. Duck legs it was to be, the only downside was, that for some reason I had frozen 6 of them together, ah well, duck more than one night then !

This is yet another simple recipe which can be used for chicken or duck legs, or for chicken breast. The beauty of it is, once prepared just throw into the oven and sit back with that glass of wine, read a book and wait.

1. A number of duck or chicken legs but these quantities are for just 2
2. An orange squeezed, of a cup of orange juice, preferably with bits in
3. A teaspoon of each sugar, salt, chilli powder, 5 spice mix
4. 1/2 teaspoon pepper
5. 4 tablespoons of either sweet chilli sauce or Chinese plum sauce.

Heat the oven to 200C ( fan oven). Mix all the dry ingredients together. Score the skin of the legs and squeeze over half of the juice. Rub the dry spice mix into the skin. Put in a baking dish and cook for about an hour. Remove from oven. Mix together the rest of the orange juice and sweet chilli/ plum sauce and pour over the ledge. Return to the oven for about 10 more minutes.

Serve with rice, noodles, vegetables or salad.

SIMPLES? YES.