Schwarzwalder Kirsch Torte ( Black Forest Cherry Cake), Chocolate Cake or Sacher Torte, your choice!

Long before Black Forest Cherry Cake became the mainstream of English Cafes, decorated with lashings of mock cream and nasty dyed red cherries, I had eaten the real McCoy . We lived in Heidelberg, I went to the University and after class went to the best Konditerei in town, namely Schafheutel, on the Haupt Strasse to sample the delights that were on display. Years later, the munchkins and I would dash from Brussels to Aachen for the Christmas Market and our first port of call would always be Kaufhoff ( the local department store ) for breakfast  and being indulgent they could have what they wanted, but none of them ever chose the Black Forest cake, sometimes it would be Apfel Strudel and sometimes  Pflaume Torte, ( plum cake). Also in those Germany years, we discovered another Black Forest delight, Schwarzwalder Himbeergeist ( literal translation, Black Forest Raspberry Ghost!) this was a local Schnapps, which was served by it’s producer at the bottom of his privately owned ski lift, right in the middle of the Black Forest! 

                                                                               
Moving on from those days, Birthdays were always celebrated with a Chocolate Birthday Cake, normally in the form of a Sacher type cake. Sachertorte, is a type of chocolate cake,  invented by Austrian Franz Sacher in 1832 in Vienna, Austria.The 5th of December is National Sachertorte Day. There were during the  1930’s-1950’s huge disputes over who had the rights to the name and they were finally settled by giving the name The Original Sacher Torte, to the hotel Sacher and the name Eduard Sacher Torte to the Demel Bakery. Apparently the recipe is a secret, but for many years the closest  I got to making the real thing was by using an Elizabeth David recipe from her 1960 book French Provincial Cooking. In my opinion she was the first celebrity cook, and she was a cook, not a chef, the same as Julia Child in the USA, both were inspirations to many, me included . In the 1960’s in the UK Elizabeth David published several cookery books and my original copy is well thumbed. 

 In recent years I moved on and started using the recipe from Ruth Rogers and Rose Grey, their famous Nemesis Chocolate Cake. The difference between their version and that of Elizabeth David, was the use of flour. For the Elizabeth David version there is a very small amount of flour whereas with the Rogers/ Grey version there is absolutely none.  Both cakes are covered with a rich Chocolate Ganache, which even after learning how to “Temper” chocolate , I was not always successful in keeping a shine on my chocolate. However help is at hand, if you live in the USA, or have access to American baking products, ( check out Costco). The product that will rescue the shine is PAM spray which is used to grease a frying pan or a cake tin. It comes in an aerosol and a quick spray will do the job. However the low calorie sprays that are available in the UK, do not do the job! I have been known to be rushing around London at 9 pm trying to find Pam spray, all to no avail!

So now I have moved on again and my latest version is that which was given to me by a dear friend, along with a fool proof glaze, which does not require tempering chocolate. I have also adapted her recipe slightly 

  1. 150g butter
  2.  150g superfine  sugar
  3. 200g plain chocolate (75% + cocoa) broken into small pieces
  4. 200g ground almonds
  5.  6 medium eggs separated
  6.   4tbs milk
  7. For the chocolate glaze
  8. 180 grms plain chocolate,again with a high cocoa content.
  9. 120g unsalted butter 
  10. 1 tablespoon golden syrup

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 150 C 
  2. Grease and line a 25 cm cake pan, better still one with a loose bottom or a spring form pan.
  3. Melt butter, sugar and chocolate. I usually do this in the microwave ( see chocolate glaze for more information )
  4. Cool slightly and fold in the almonds, the egg yolks and milk.
  5. Whisk egg whites until they hold stiff peaks and fold into the chocolate mixture. 
  6. Pour into the tins and bake for about 40 minutes.After 40 mins the top should be firm to the touch, but you can not test for doneness by the traditional method of inserting a skewer and seeing if it comes out clean. Remove from oven leave to cool for 10 minutes and then careful remove the spring form, leaving the cake on the base.. When fully cold, carefully slide with the help of a spatula onto the serving dish.
  7. Break the chocolate into small pieces into a bowl add the butter and the golden syrup and either melt on a low Microwave heat or place the bowl over a pan of hot water and let th chocolate melt. A point of interest, melted chocolate can be melted but still retains its shape!
  8. If desire you can add the grated zest of an orange.
  9. Pour the melted chocolate carefully over the cake. It will spill over the edge, using a damp cloth or kitchen paper, tidy up the edges.
  10. Decorate the cake as desired,  mine with almond flakes, as someone poked a finger in!!     

I saw in a cookery magazine recently a recipe called, Pizookie , it consisted of a pizza size chocolate chip cookie, which was served as a finale at  dinner party, served warm with lashings of Ice Cream. ( this actually came out of the Waitrose Test kitchen) I  really do not like the sound of this at all, and neither do I fancy Butter ( unsalted of course ) with chocolate chips in it,which I saw recently on French Supermarket shelves  Ummm ? both are interesting but the word Interesting  in Himselves vocabulary is very much a negative and I do not think I will be trying either anytime soon.

On a final note I saw in Marks and Spencer the other day, single clove garlic, whooppee I love it!!

      Ice Cream !

      Moving back to Belgium from Texas, many years ago,  was a huge culture shock. Although we had lived in Belgium previously, in fact two times, but after the easy going life in Texas and returning to the rather mundane life in Brussels, it was indeed difficult. With a population of about 11 million and an expat population of over 600,000. ( most of whom are in and around the capital) it is hardly surprising that the locals take to the barricades!

      I found I had to make my own peanut butter ( not really a hardship) but harder was I had to make my own Ice Cream. This was not because Belgium had no Ice Cream, quite the reverse, it had plenty, but the run of the mill supermarket variety left much to be desired, at least this is what my in house tasters declared.

      You see,  in Texas, we lived near to the Crème de la Crème of ice cream makers, the “little creamery” in Brenham. Bluebell Ice cream, was indeed ice cream heaven. Even better, when in late summer, and only then, they made Peaches and Cream. And so the munchkins would sidle off to the creamery and return with a ( and I kid you not ) a 5 gallon of the aforementioned ice cream. This was their birthday present to Himself. And it has been known that he has been seen, late at night, patting the Great Dane and eating his special treat, straight out of the tub!

      So home making of Ice Cream, requires an investment of sorts, either time or money. Time if you choose the type of ice cream machine, which either you have to crank yourself  ( using special salt as the freezing agent) or the type of machine that you have to remember to freeze the container hours before hand. Or money,if you choose to splash out on the type that has its own freezer compartment and therefore requires no pre-freezing no hand cranking and no thought beforehand, I have to admit to buying the machine with its own freezer unit.

        
      My first forays into Ice Cream making, I made use of the Ben and Jerry’s guide to making Ice Cream, ( the book is still available on Amazon, it is worthwhile the investment) ( unfortunately Ben and Jerry are no longer just two guys, but part of Unilever, and Rose and Reuben Matteus are no longer Haagen Dazs, they are owned by General Foods and Nestlé ).  I still use the book as my guide to ice cream making, all of their wonderful flavours from Chocolate chip cookie dough to Cherry Garcia are in it. The basic vanilla, is very easy to make and from there on, you can be as creative as you like. My two recent additions are Popcorn with salted caramel sauce and my version of Pecan, Pralines and Cream. You have to understand, however, I am not an ice cream eater, but give me a tub of Pecan Pralines and Cream and I could eat the whole lot. Not for me, Cookies and Cream, Rocky Road, Cherry Garcia or Bubblegum, not even Double Chocolate , just the one. Mexicans really like their Ice cream and in Mexico City there are a couple of really old fashioned Ice Cream parlours, which have been family run since 1946, ( Neveria Roxy) and little has changed since. They have a long list of flavours, the staff scurry around to serve you as fast as they can as there are always customers waiting to be served and really olf fashoined bar stools and tables.

      So the basic recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream is as follows.

      1. 2 Eggs, 4oz ( 1/2 Cup) superfine caster sugar, 500mls double cream ( 2 Cups) , 250 mls whole milk 2 teaspoons vanilla essence.

      Whisk the eggs and the sugar together until stiff, stir in the cream,  the milk and the vanilla,mix well but do not beat. Pour ino your ice cream machine and follow the instructions. Altenatively, pour into a large plastic box, place in the freezer and stir well about once every half hour.

      For my Pecans Praline and cream ice cream, I made salted caramel sauce. 

      You will need 8 oz super fine sugar, 250 mls double cream, 2 oz unsalted butter and a teaspoon of sea salt.
      To make this, put the sugar into a heavy saucepan and put onto the heat.  

       Wiggle it now and again and you will see the sugar beginning to melt and to caramalise.  

      sugar begining to caramelise

      When it is golden brown, add the butter,cut into chunks, be careful as it will splutter.  

         
      when it has melted, add the cream and a teaspoon of sea salt and cook for about five minutes. Leave to cool. Now take about 6 oz of pecans and chop roughly, put ito a saucepan about an ounce of butter, melt it and add the nuts, stirring whilst they brown. remove from heat and drain on kitchen paper., mix into the caramel sauce. 

      browning the pecan nuts
        When the ice cream is more or less set, stir in the caramel mixture, but only roughly, so that there will be pockets of the caramel sauce in the vanilla ice cream.

      So now I have left himself , home alone with strict instructions to devour the gallon of Ice cream that I left him ( not for nothing  does he have the nickname of “Ice Cream Mouse”. Me? I am off to Neveria Roxy,  with the new generation of Ice Crean Fans!

       

      the originl Ice Cream Mouse
        
      the new generation of Ice Cream Lovers
       

      Quell Horreur, Les souris sont arriveé

      My French local supermarket, has mice, not the cute, Mickey type nor the Tom and Jerry type, but the dark grey vermin type. I detest mice, they breed like crazy and are incontinent.  And, I do not want to see any evidence of them when I am shopping, no droppings, no nibblings and no sightings!

      I have been known to have stores shut on account of mice. Once many years ago in Belgium, my local, had an abundance of them, so many in fact they stood inline ( more or less) to say Bonjour, as you entered. They were everywhere, when I mentioned it to the manager, his response was “Ça vous gêne, Madam? ( does it bother you) Well yes it did, so I ran a personal campaign to get rid of them, and I won. Phew, it was however, not an easy task, when confronting Le Maire, and telling him it would be shut down in England, his reply was a comforting, ” Ah Qui, Madam, ce n’est pas Angleterre, c’est la Belgique “.

      Still, years later, willowy Brunette, reported mice in her local supermarket, and behold, Westminster council shut them down overnight. On the other hand, I am grateful that I do not have to shop in Superama ( aka Pooperama) in Mexico City, where sylph like blond has to shop, chicken defrosting on the counter top, along with fish, which generally smells a bit and she has even found maggots in the ground beef.

      Still disgusting as that is, it does not compare to our hotel ( sylph Blond and myself) in a remote Chinese town, where mice were running around the bathroom, and cockroaches thought that our back packs made a wonderful new home, or in Kathmandu in the Dwarka Hotel ( a beautiful building with exemplary service I have to admit) where Rats were running down the wall!  And the reply to all of this was “they are only little animals!” I think I can hardly blame them, after all when it is minus 15 C outside, where  would you rather be, warm and snug with a plentiful food supply, or freezing to death outside, But just do not let me see any evidence of them.

      Market stand with Nougat
      Market stand with Nougat

      There are several food items, available on the markets in France, and as I have said before, that I love food markets, that I do not understand at all. One is their passion for Nougat, huge slabs of it in 50 shades and flavours.

      The French speciality BESCOINS
      The French speciality BESCOINS

       

       

      Another is Pain d’Epices, which is basically gingerbread, again available in large quantities, and various extra flavourings . The only time I have eaten it, it was served as a base for Fois Gras, not a good combination at all, the fois gras, hot and buttery, whilst the Pain d’Epices, was dry and boring. This year I have discovered another, and it is Bescoins. Until now  I have not eaten any, however, it was for sale outside our church on the evening of Assumption ( a national holiday in France), we had to look up the word and after many attempts found out that it is a type of bread or possibly Brioche, coloured with saffron and flavoured with aniseed. It is traditionally made in the Savoie region of France and for special occasions.

      Onto more exciting food. En route from the French mountains to the UK we diverted via St. Omer, in the main to avoid Calais and the immigrant problem there. St Omer, is a pretty town, with some beautiful buildings but on a warm summers night in August, it reminded me of the Christmas poem. ‘Twas the night before Christmas, and all through the house, not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse! And so it was thus in St. Omer. We had our doubts about our dinner reservation. But we were in for a big surprise. On a Thursday evening, it was quite full , service excellent and food wonderful.

      Le Cygne in St. Omer
      Le Cygne in St. Omer
      the Menu
      the Menu
      Nibbles to start with
      Nibbles to start with
      Hot Fois Gras with raspberry vinaigrette
      Hot Fois Gras with raspberry vinaigrette
      cold fois gras
      cold fois gras
      Tornados with Fois Gras
      Tornados with Fois Gras
      Riz de Veau
      Riz de Veau

      Jimmy Choo ( professor) OBE, has a restaurant!

      Jimmy Choo, the real life shoe designer ( not the high street brand, which went global under Tamara Mellon) the man originally behind the brand and his couture shoe company, has branched out into the restaurant business. Well, he is the man behind,  Maximini, a Chinese restaurant in the Marble Arch area of West London. It is a relief to have something different from the Persian /Arabic restaurants in this neighbourhood, as this is where the inhabitants of many of the gulf states de-camp to in the height of the summer. 

      Surprisingly Jimmy Choo has labeled his restaurant Fine Chinese dining, he is from Malaysia, and his favourite local restaurnt is the Satay house, (Malaysian) which is near Paddington Station. We have not been to the Satay House for a long time now, but it is a bit of a hole in the wall type of restaurant, but full of Malays, which usually means that the food is good, and it is!

      But back to Maximini, our dinner there on a warm summers evening, was very pleasant though we will not be rushing back. Trip Avisor says that although Maximini has only been opened a couple of years, it is in need of a face lift, but I can not comment, as we sat outside.  

       The Menu, is in fact a mix of Chinese, Malay, Indonesian and Peranakan cuisine, which is of course, Jimmy Choos heritage. We started with a Mixed Hot Platter, which consisted of Satay Chicken, Prawn toasts and Vegetarian Spring Rolls, all very good. We then chose, myself the Crispy Duck, ( Peking Duck) with spring onion and chinese pancake, Willowy Brunette chose the Sambal Prawns, and himself, the Malay Beef Curry. We also chose, stir fried Pak Choi, Penang noodles and stir fried Broccoli. The vegetables were absolutly delicious and plentiful, actually all of the food was delicious and no complaints there. However, the service certainly needs attention. My crispy duck arrived a good 10 minutes before the rest of the meal. Not good at all, but on re-thinking, we might try again, as the food was outstanding, and given that the Willowy Brunette, would not normally go to a restaurant that smacks of being chinese ( overcooked, precooked and MSG) but she enjoyed her dinner, it could be worth giving it a second chance.

       

      mixed hot starter
       
       
      Malay Beef Curry
        
      stir fried broccoli
        
      sambal prawns
         
         

      During the summer months, dining heads towards the lazy side with BBQ being the name of the game, fish, kebabs, homemade hamburgers, steak or whatever takes our fancy. However, something needs to accompany the grill food, one of our favourites is grilled Baby Gem Lettuce, which is simple beyond belief.

      Allo 1/2 a Baby Gem per person,trim the end off and discard some of the less desirable outer leaves,, run them under water and shake dry or pat on paper towel, smear with olive oil and some smashed garlic if desired. Place on a hot grill and grill for about three minutes before turning, turn and grill the second side. Of course do not over cook ( read Burn) and timing will depend upon the strength of your grill.

      The other time that is really simplicity itself is what I call, grilled vegetable salad with couscous and Harissa. 

      Mixed grilled vegetables
       Prepare a quantity of vegetables for grilling, include, red, green and yellow peppers, aubergine, courgettes, tomatoes cut into 1/4’s and red onions cut into thick slice’s . Grill on a BBQ ( can be done in. Grill pan on the stove top) when cooked ( do not overlook) put into a polythene bag to sweat, whilst cooking the remainder of the vegetables. Put all of the vegetables into  bowl or box, pour over some salt and pepper and some olive oil and mix well. At this point the vegetables maybe left until ready to use or refrigerated until needed. 

       Take 8 oz of easy cook couscous, add a knob of butter and a pinch of salt. Pour over some boiling water, enough to cover plus an inch. Leave to stand until all the water has been absorbed, stir. Leave to one side to cool.

        Make the Harissa dressing by mixing together, 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons of ground cumin, 1/2 tube tomato paste, 1/2 can Harissa paste and 1/2 cup lemon juice. 

      Assemble when ready to eat, put the couscous in a bowel, add the grilled vegetables,top with assorted salad leaves  and then dollops of the Harissa mix. Cut 4 Oz of Feta cheese into cubes, add this to the top of the salad. Toss altogether with small amount of vinaigrette and sprinkle over some white or black sesame seeds .

      Lamb Shanks? There is another way!

      Lamb Shanks? There is another way!

      Friends were coming to stay, I defrosted lamb shanks. Friends did not come to stay, but lamb shanks stayed defrosted, so what now? Raining hard did not want to go to the grocery store.On TV , the programme Master Chef, they have an invention test, which I think is fun, and I often play it with myself, what can I make with what I have in the refrigerator or pantry.

       And so it was for the Lamb Shanks. I had onions, red peppers,  garlic and carrots, Red wine, oilve oil,  soft dried prunes, a jar of unwanted marmalade, a can of chopped tomatoes , a can of chick peas, a can of Harrissa paste and a jar of onion marmalade. So I set to work, I sauteed the lamb shanks, until brown on all sides in the olive oil, put those to one side, added more oil to the pan and added the sliced onions and chopped garlic, when those were soft I added the carrots and chopped red peppers , returned the Lamb to the pan and added a bottle of red wine, put the lid on and left to simmer for about an hour or until the lamb was really tender. I removed the lamb, from the pan and de-boned it ( I find that usually one shank is too much for one person and so it easier to serve off the bone).  

      slow cooked Lamb Shanks in red wine
       Returned the meat to the pan, added the can of tomatoes  the chick peas, the onion marmalade the orange marmalade, 2 tablespoons of Harrissa paste and about 12 soft prunes, simmered  some more until the sauce was unctuous. I added no salt nor pepper and the result? YUMMY, try it for yourself. Be creative! Try the invention test for yourselves, just remember, in cooking you can be as creative as you like, there are no rules ( well not many, if any) but in baking there are rules, which so need to be followed.

       Many years ago, I fell in love with two special cookery books and I made it a rule that every Sunday, I would cook something new from one of them. If your cooking style is in a bit of a rut, then I suggest you browse through a book store and find something that will inspire you to be more creative. One that is very useful, especially when the kids have gone and now you are cooking for just two, is “The Roux brothers cooking for two” by Albert and Michel Roux, and the other one is”Simca’s Cuisine ” by Simone Beck. She co-authored the eponymous ” Mastering the Art of French Cooking” with the doyenne of American cookery, Julia Child. 

          

       Although both of these books are probably out of print, it is always possible to buy a secondhand copy via, Amazon, or from a secondhand bookstore. I have indeed bought additional copies, so I can always have a spare one to hand.

      Recently Glenda Cooper said in The Daily telegraph that, a recent  survey of 2,000 Britons confirmed the fact that on average we own six recipe books, yet make the same nine meals over and over again. Turn on the Telly and there are cooking programmes galore and recently the latest version of The Great British Bake Off, attracted 10 million viewers, and yet, how many go on to cook and exciting dinner? Sadly very few.

        

      Steak Tartare,  Mayonnaise, and Bouillabaisse !

      When himself went to Berlin to University ( a life time ago), he spoke no German, whatsoever. Arriving at the Hauptbahnhof, near midnight, the station restaurant was still open. Looking at the menu he recognised Nothing! But wait a moment Steak Americain! STEAK, that will do! So he chose that but to his great surprise, it was raw meat!

      Times have changed, and steak Americain, or steak tartare, is one of our favourites. Of course it got a bad rap after the various BSE scares, but honestly we find it a delight, especially when it is prepared in front of you, at your table. One restaurant in London that I like and which has recently been re vamped is The Ivy in Covent Garden . I have checked and it still serves Steak Tartare either as a starter of as a main course. We were in Montreux Switzerland recently, and ate at the Jazz Cafe ( it was the Montreux Jazz festival) . On the menu we found Steak Tartare and of course we both chose it. Our friends newly arrived from Houston Texas, where they like their steaks ( big and cooked) were not so keen but JB did choose the duck and asked for it rare, and then he had food envy when he saw ours!   

       It easy to make yourself, but especially easy here in France, as the butcher will mince top quality steak for you. However, in the UK I would recommend either you mince the meat yourself, or chop it by hand but make sure it is chopped finely.

      To make your own Steak Tartare you will need:-

      500g of beef fillet, diced or minced.          25g of shallot or red onion finely chopped

      40g of cornichons, chopped.                       40g of baby capers, rinsed

      20g of Dijon mustard.                                   90g of mayonnaise

      5 drops of Tabasco.                                        14ml of brandy

      1 pinch of parsley, chopped.                          Salt and pepper to taste

      To serve:-

      4 egg yolks.       4 slices of sourdough bread And or Double cooked French ( Belgian ) fries.    100g of rocket 

       

      the ingredients for Steak Tartare
       

       
       

      the Chef mixing the ingredients
           

      The finished product!
           
       

      Michaël Torfs reports that the Belgian government is working on a new law which determines the composition of mayonnaise. You might think that this is a bit weird, however, Mayo is an important part of “Frites et Mayo” “frieten met mayonaise” (chips with mayonnaise). De Morgen and Het Laatste Nieuws, Belgian newspapers, and this has been picked up by The Times and the Guardian of London. The current law (1955 ), decrees that real Mayo should contain 80% fat and 7.7% egg yolk. But in times of food consciousness many manufacturers make a healthier options, which puts the Belgian producers at a disadvantage.  Actually not sure why someone would choose a lighter Mayo with the French fries after all they themselves are highly calorific, especially as in Belgium French fries are always double cooked and the best triple cooked. By the way, French fries were not apparently invented by the French but by the Belgians in the 17 th century, which strikes me as odd, as Belgium as a country did not come into being until after the Napoleonic wars! Ah Well!

      Himself, when asked the other night “what would you like for dinner?” came up with the idea of Boulliabaisse. Great idea, I thought, but we had to compromise as if you read French cook books, One can not make a true Boulliabaisse, without  Racasse, ( a fish of the Scorpion Family) and alternative in the UK is Gurnard, or possibly monkfish. Acording to the orginal doyenne of cookery, Elizabeth David, said there are as many “Authentic” Boulliabaisse recipes as there are cooks!

      So lacking Racasse. or anything similar, we connocted our own recipe, using that which was available, so I guess it could be called a fish stew along the lines of Boulliabaisse. The whole principle of this dinner was that himself would cook dinner. And he did.

      So for our version of Bouillabaisse, he used.

      1. about 200 grms each of white fish, salmon, wth the skin removed and cut into chunks. 200 grms each of Shrimp( large ones, de-veined and heads off) Squid, cleaned and cut into slices.12 od so mussels.
      2. 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 onions chopped, 2 sticks celery chopped, 1 fennel bulb, chopped, 6 cloves garlic, chopped.
      3. 2Tbsp tomato puree, 1 can chopped tomatoes 
      4. a bouquet garni composed of thyme, bay leaves and fennel sprigs
      5. 1/2 bottle white wine. plus some Rouille for eating.( see later)
      6. a splash of lemon juice
      7. a splash of pernod ( optional of course)
      1. Boil together the oil and the wine. Add the vegetables and cook until soft. Add the canned tomatoes and the tomato purée. Add the  bouquet Garni,  along with the lemon juice andPernod.
      2. add each type of fish  separately , and cook gently, when cooked remove and put to one side, and then cook the next, until you reach the the shrimp and  mussels.. return all the fish to the stew, taste and season, add more wine of stock to create enough liquid to be able to add the shrimp and mussels. Simmer, and the shrimp and shell fish will only take a few minutes to cook.

      To try and be a little more authentic this should be served in large bowls, along with some  slices of French bread toasted with some garlic butter, AND Rouille stirred into your bowl. Rouille is a fiery sauce, from theMediterranean, It is made by whizzing together, several cloves of garlic  along with 2 small red chili peppers and 1 red pepper. Take a thick slice of bread, remove the crust and soak in a little of your fish soup. Squeeze it and add to the garlic etc., Whizz in little by little an egg yolk and then add bit by bit up to 4 Fl Oz of Olive oil ( as if you were making Mayonnaise. If you think this is a bit of a faf, which I can understand, then you can by it ready made in many supermarkets. 

        
         

         

        
            

         

      Wasabi, Truffle Oil and Single Clove Garlic.

      I am pretty sure most of you know of Wasabi, that green hot paste type Japanese condiment that is used with Sushi and other Japanese  meals. However did you also know that Wasabi is difficult to cultivate, and that makes it quite expensive. Outside of Japan it is rare to find wasabi plants and therefore, due  to its high cost, what one buys is usually a mixture of horseradish, mustard, starch and green food coloring. Often packages are labeled as wasabi, but the ingredients do not actually include any or little real Wasabi. I believe that high end Japanese restaurant do use real wasabi and will grate it for you at the table ( have to admit to having not seen this being done in London). Looking at my box  of “hot and spicy grated horseradish ” it contains  24% horseradish,  and only 1.6% wasabi. It also contains various E numbers, colorants and Soy ( in case you are allergic to soy.! 

        
       Another product, that I have had an ongoing gripe about is, truffle oil! Celebrity chefs, wax lyrical about the stuff, TV cooks both amatuer and professional use it and so the home cook, thinks, I can do that as well. I too was fooled by what would seem to be a remarkably successful scam on foodie culture: truffle oil. 

      Despite the name, almost all truffle oil does not contain even trace amounts of truffle; it is olive oil mixed with 2,4-dithiapentane, a compound that makes up part of the smell of truffles, is artificial and is made in a laboratory ! Essentially, truffle oil is olive oil plus truffles’  rather unpleasant  smell. Looking up  food sites you can find Truffle oil from about £5.50 for 250Mls, ( waitrose)   ( ingredients stated as olive oil and flavouring) to Carluccio’s Oilio al Tartufo,     ( ingredients, olive oil 99.9% and white truffle 0.1%) a Bit of a rip off! Even more outrageous in my opinion, is the TRUFFLE HUNTER, who claims they have a superior concentated Black Truffle oil, when looking at the ingredients, it states, Extra Virgin Olive oil, Olive oil ( I assume that is Bog standard olive oil) , black truffles( I think that it should read a smidgin of black truffle, as you can see a tiny bit floating around) and black truffle flavouring. They do not elaborate on the flavouring but I can assure you it is nothing more thatn Cheap as Chips, 2.4 dithiapentane, and if Himself  still had a laboratory, I am sure he could conjure me up some.  

       One of the leading brands is Urbani, from Italy ( $25 for 250 mls ) and as you can see from the lable, it pretends to be White truffle oil, BUT look at the lable. One American blog, states that he finds the smell of Truffle oil to be a real Aphrodisiac, but he too was fooled, by this scam. Wikepedia, tells the obvious with top American foodies, declaring it should be outlawed. 

        
       However , we have already understood that truffles are fairly rare and expensive, they can cost  as much as €10,000 per kilo, so why am I suprised that we are fobbed off with something that contains almost NO truffles.
      So what else is new on the food scene. Well the younger himself, as previously stated, wondered why on earth I was taking so much stuff to France, including Garlic, I might add. BUT have you seen or tried this ( to me) new type of garlic. it is single bulb garlic, easy to peel, easy to squash with a knife, or in a garlic press. I love it! It also known as  monobulb garlic, single bulb garlic, or pearl garlic, is a variety of Allium sativium and the single clove is about 25-40 mm in diameter. It tatses like garlic though maybe a bit milder. It originates in Yunnan province in Southern China.  In the Uk one of the retailers is Lidl, the German discount supermarket.  

       

      When the going gets tough, the girls go to Spain!

      When I told my octogenarian neighbour that 32 ladies went to Spain to play golf, his first comment was ” what a nightmare” and the second was the old cliché ” that isn’t a lady, it is my wife!

      But yes 32 ( ranging in age 40 to 87 years) of us headed off to La Cala resort, which is halfway between Malaga and Marbella, set in the hillside. How they created  a golf course in what appears to be inhospitable countryside, beats me, but they did it three times, as there are three 18 hole courses there along with a rustic looking but very comfortable hotel, who know who their guests are – golfers! The rooms were spacious and generally came with a small kitchen, perfect for that morning cup of tea!

      We ate well in Spain, firstly at the hotel, on our first night. We had Tapas galore followed by dinner, all very good, but most of us had eaten far too many Tapas, to really appreciate our dinner, but both the food and the service were excellent.

      golf
      One of the three very hilly golf courses, a buggy an essential!

      The next night, after a day of golf,me de-camped to  Mijas Peublo, a really pretty mountainside town, complete with its still functioning Bull Ring and magnificent mountain to sea views. Here we ate at a small restaurant, taking over the complete terrace, I pitied anyone living near by! Our dinner  consisted of, cheese croquettes, chorizo sausages, Andalucian Gazpacho,  and either fish or roast baby lamb, followed by a soufflé of Grand Marnier. This was very proudly presented by the head chef. It was a family run business , and good honest food, all of which was very good, but for me the soufflé was perhaps a bit ambitious for such a large group, some of it was not really cooked and for my taste way too sweet. 

      girls at the Bull Ring
      girls at the Bull Ring
      chef
      the Proud Chefs with the flaming souffles

         

      terrace restaurant
      The Terrace Restaurant

      So onto our third night. We went to Da Bruno, which I have mentioned before and really liked, and again the service and the food were really good, the only down side was fresh mint tea at the end of dinner, a language problem maybe,but we ended up with a table full of little teapots, and not enough cups!

      Too many tea pots and not enough cups!
      Too many tea pots and not enough cups!
      IMG_3408
      an assortment of Tapas at Da Bruno

      We were served an assortment of Tapas to start with which included Pizza, Vitello Tonnato, Iberian ham with manchego cheese and Prawns Pil-Pil, main courses were a choice of Rigatone, Sea Bass or Escalope in Lemon Sauce and for dessert, either Tiramisu or Fruit salad. General consensus was all was good, I did not see many empty plates! 

      Day four, saw us visiting La Jinete, this is a restaurant not far from the resort of La Cala, but appears to be in the middle of nowhere, but do not be fooled, it was packed!

      an Empty La Jinete
      an Empty La Jinete
      View from the Terrace
      View from the Terrace

      Partly due to the fact that Wednesday night is music night and partly due to the fact that it is extremely good value. On Music nights the three course menu costs €22 ! One had a choice of 7 different starters ranging from soup of the day to an Argentinian Empanada with grilled chorizo and black pudding.  And for the Main courses, there were an impressive 9  to choose from , with Steak, Lamb, Pork and Pasta all on the menu. For dessert there were 6 to choose from, and weirdly amongst them was Mississippi Mud Pie and Banoffee cheesecake.All the tables were full and despite the guitarist not being the most enthusiastic in his playing, the atmosphere was one of everyone having fun.The food was, considering the sheer number of diners was very good and the service likewise.

      Our final night was spent in much more sophisticated surroundings at  a restaurant called Avanto, in Mijas Playa. Overlooking the sea with clean crisp table cloths and napkins, it has all the makings of a good restaurant. However I am afraid it did not live up to expectations, it ha recently changed its name, maybe the chef/owner has changed as well. Looking on Trip Advisor , has confirmed my opinion, as the majority of reviews are not very positive. We had a set menu, understandably given our number, with a choice of two on each one. I chose the Beetroot carpaccio with roasted scallops, but flavoursome it was not, the Sea Bream with Wok vegetables was fine, just not very exciting, and the desserts were a real disappointment.

      The Menu at Avanto
      The Menu at Avanto
      Banoffee Pie
      Banoffee Pie
      The soft and sloppy mousse
      The soft and sloppy mousse

      The mousse was not a mousse at all but more likely melted Ice Cream and for those who chose the Banoffee pie ( weirdly again) said it too did not live up to their expectations. Service was fine but zero for atmosphere, ( we were the only ones there, did we scare everyone else away?) However, a huge thank you goes to our Lady Captain who took on the task of organising this trip, which I have to say went really well, I wish the same to next years captain. Where are we going??? watch this space.

      Three restaurants and Three stars, for food that is

      We have now been to all three of Bruce Pooles, Michelin Starred restaurants. The first to open was, Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, 1995, the 2nd, The Glasshouse in Kew in 1999 and finally La Trompette in Chiswick, in 2001. All suburbs of London. My personal favourite has always been La Trompette, basically as for a while there, I could walk to it, second in line was the Glasshouse, also easy to get to, as it is on the district line, right next door to Kew underground station, and then finally Chez Bruce. I wrote last year about Chez Bruce, but it is way down my list of must go to restaurants and not only because it is south of the river  and oops I don’t really like going south of the river, a bit too much of a faff, BUT we found the service, decidedly  iffy. For example, the waiter addressed us with ” You done with that?” Alright in a lesser restaurant maybe, but in a Michelin starred establishment. NO!, The lights were turned up bright before we were hardly on our coffee ( I was almost expecting the chairs to be put on the tables and the floor to be swept!) But the worse crime I felt was that when I tweeted Bruce, about this, there was and has never been a reply. Too Bad.

      We also found that out of the three, the Glasshouse was the most affordable, +/- £32 for three courses AND the sister restaurants often gave away vouchers for a special offer, midweek. Not any more I fear, as the price is now £47 in both the Glasshouse and in La Trompete. Affordable for two but when you take the family , it now becomes almost a 2nd mortgage, by the time one adds wine, aperitif, coffee and service!

      Still, we went for a birthday treat, and I have to say, we were all ( well almost all) very happy with our meal.The restaurant was full and the service was still as slick as ever. 

       The willowy brunette chose the Watercress Soup with a slow cooked hens egg, she said it was excellent, but then she is very much a soup person and I could have predicted that as being her choice. The boys chose the Tartare of Welsh black beef with smoked paprika and candied beetroot. Me, I had the cured salmon with a prawn beignet avocado, and oyster dressing. All very scrumptious! 

            For our main courses, we chose the loin of Welsh lamb, our newly wed said it was lovely , the Cornish cod was delicious  as was  the wild garlic risotto, however, the other half of the newly weds, who is seriously into food, declared that his Line Caught Turbot ( and additional £5 ) was sadly disappointing, that the red pepper sauce, did nothing to enhance the dish and that somehow the sauce was sweet.

         
         We all skipped dessert so can not comment on that, but back to the Michelin Stars. In a February edition of the London Evening standard it was reported that La Trompette in Chiswick, was given a one-star rating out of five by  Food Standards Agency inspectors, a one-star status means “major improvement necessary”.

      The report, following an inspection by a Hounslow council food safety officer in October, said the restaurant had struggled to reach safety standards over several years and had “still not got to grips” with them.

      The officer was concerned that the head chef “demonstrated little knowledge of the location and content” of the food safety manual. Other shortfalls were in systems to prevent rodent contamination and cross-contamination of E.coli 0157.
      So all I can say is that I hope they have got themselves sorted out by now, as certainly this was  my favourite of the three restaurants, but we shall see.