Abandoning all thing Far Eastern and street food for a short while, I am going back to another Michelin Starred restaurant. In London where I live, these abound, some come and some go, but never are we far from great restaurants, and if in walking distance , even better.
Flowers or Chocolates are forbidden on Valentine’s day ( they can be given at any other time, even Diamonds are acceptable !!) and so it was we walked more or less down the road to ROGANIC. A play on words as the Owner/Chef or should that be Chef/Patron is Simon Rogan. He has another restaurant in the Lake District called Enclume ( French for Anvil, apparently there is one in the restaurant, somewhere.) The Daily Telegraph was not over impressed with the location ( somewhere north of Oxford Street,) of Roganic, nor its Interior. I would say it is in the heart of Marylebone and the interior simple and the place itself is small. If it were to be full , then maybe it would be noisy. Restaurants these days, like the spartan look, but of course that means that there is nothing to deaden the noise. I liked the simplicity and immediately recognised their choice of lampshades as number one daughter has them, good choice, I would say.
So, we went for lunch, they have three choices, a set menu at £45, three courses, no choice, a short tasting menu at £80 and the long tasting menu at £115. We opted for the short tasting menu.
The menu actually tells you absolutely NOTHING!, But that is ok by us, as we will eat or at least try EVERYTHING.
But thanks to the Notes section on my phone, I have everything recorded, well more or less as it is interesting what is noted when spoken to the phone!
The menu translates as
- Blackberry tart, which was very pretty and a beautiful colour along with a green drink which was made from Apples and Aniseed
- Fermented mushrooms with yeast oil and cream cheese
- Artichoke with quail egg and rosemary
- Salt baked celeriac and a celeriac crisp
- Monkfish with Prosecco and a brown butter and seaweed sauce
- Filet of beef with sweet onion, green onion and garlic sauce and a mini shepherds pie
- Tunworth cheese ice-cream with hazelnut crumbs and cranberries
- Yorkshire rhubarb with early grey and buttermilk ice-cream
For both of us it was a great dining experience, the place was not overcrowded ( it was lunch time) and the food and service excellent. Sometimes wait staff ( and they are only doing their job) interrupt just once too often, but as the menu gives nothing away, it is prehaps an evil necessity for them to interrupt. Just don’t go there thinking you might be able to have a serious Tête à Tête !!
For me the Pièce de Résistance was the cheese ice-cream. Actually a revelation. It is made with an English cheese called Tunworth. It is a brie/camembert equivalent and in fact won Supreme Champion at the British Cheese awards in 2013. And I found it in Waitrose! and a superb cheese it is and so I produced my own version of this wonderful ice-cream . To make the ice cream, I used my basic recipe which is
- 600 ml Double cream
- 4 oz fine sugar
- 3 eggs beaten
- 1/2 a Tunworth cheese
Pour the cream into a food processor , and then with the engine running add the sugar and the eggs, along with the cheese which has been cut into chunks. Process for a couple of minutes until smooth. If you have an ice cream machine follow the instructions or pour into a plastic container and place into the fast freeze section of the Freezer, stir eery half hour until it is pretty much set. Puree some frozen raspberries and put a spoonful into the bottom of ramekins dishes ( try to find small dishes as this is rather rich). Smooth on top the ice cream mixture and some grated or crumbled nuts , fine almonds, ( finely chopped ginger nuts would also work). Keep frozen until 15 minutes before serving, decorate. and eat.