Parsnips those limpid and plaid vegetables!

Who doesn’t love parsnips? Well, weirdly, they were not part of my life growing up and I do not understand why! My parents always had a vegetable garden and were very much self sufficient, as was the norm then. We / They grew everything then, but as I remember everyone else did so as well, but I don’t remember parsnips, nor Swede, nor turnips. Yes cabbage, yes Brussels sprouts, yes to beans and peas, but no spinach, no kale, yes it is odd and unfortunately my mother is not alive and neither is the lovely Auntie Brenda, who would have told me everything! The next bit, I’ve no idea how true it is, but we lived in Belgium for 13 years and I do believe that they don’t eat Swede or turnips because of the world wars. They ate them then, rather than give them to any livestock that was still alive ( well who wouldn’t) but since then No! True or False? I’ve no idea, but I have to say, I don’t recall seeing either in the supermarkets, or indeed in my local street market.

But back to parsnips. I made soup the other week with parsnips, which even though I say it myself was absolutely delicious ( and I am not a big soup fan)! Not being content with making one Parsnip soup I made another ! The first was parsnip and caramelised onion and the second was Parsnip, celeriac and mushroom, the celeriac came into play simply because I had one in the refrigerator which cried out to be added to the soup, and it certainly gave an added flavour. I had been a bit wary of parsnip and mushroom but I needn’t have worried as again the finished result was good. And then yet another ! Curried Parsnip Soup! Overload perhaps? So now himself has a stock of soup, packed and frozen ready for His Lunch ! I pack them in portion sized, flat, and then I vacuum seal to minimise the space they take in the freezer.

What else do we know about Parsnips? Well they have been around since ancient times, in fact well before we in Europe had Potatoes or sugar, both of which came from the New World, and honey was expensive. Parsnips are sweet and in the past were used in all sorts of ways, simmered in wine with olive oil, enhanced with spices, in a sauce with with celery seed, coriander, stock, raisin wine and oil or even a vegetable sausage, mixed with spelt, eggs and nuts. They are an excellent source of Vitamin C and E and of course starch and fibre.

Parsnips in a greengrocers or super market don’t really look that exciting, sometimes limp , certainly frumpy and pallid, even carrots look more exciting, but parsnips, they exist alongside Celeriac which in itself is not a pretty vegetable!

Parsnips can of course be made into a gratin alongside other root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, celeriac and Jerusalem Artichokes.( Fact about Jerusalem Artichokes, they are not Artichokes and they done come from Jerusalem ! They are part of the Sunflower family, hence in the USA they are called SUNCHOKES!)

Roast parsnips are lovely and even better when just before serving they are drizzled with some lemon juice and maple syrup. Another idea is sautéed parsnips in which they have been cut into batons, blanched sautéed in butter with some orange juice, both of which are reduced to a light glaze. And not forgetting Parsnips crisps which are easy to make.

Parsnip crisps are the quickest to cook of all root vegetable crisps to make. Heat the oven up to 160 /140 fan. Use a mandolin or a vegetable peeler to make thin strips of parsnip.

There is no need to peel your parsnips, just wash and dry them. You don’t need very much oil to make vegetable crisps, they need the thinnest of coatings. 

Pop your strips into a bowl, add your oil and flavourings( such as chilli oil, sea salt, roaemary and then tumble them onto a baking tray, and then make sure that they do not overlap at all!m
Cooking time will depend on how thin or thick your strips are. Keep a close eye on them and whip them out when they are browned. You may need to take some off the tray when brown and return the slower ones to the oven for a few minutes more.
Cool them on a wire rack to help them crisp up even more. 

Parsnips can also be eaten raw and in a salad. Again, using a vegetable peeler make strips of parsnips and half of them in a bowl with lemon juice and leave to soak for about 45 minutes. The other half deep fry, or as above crisps in the oven. Use these parsnips along with lettuce, rocket ( arugula) some chopped nuts, maybe some olives and some feta cheese.

But back to soup. Variations on a theme, the basic quantity of vegetable is a kilo, so doesn’t matter if you are making Parsnip soup, Carrot and Parsnip, Parsnip/Mushroom/Celeriac or Curried variations or what ever the combination you choose. So here is the basic:-

  • 1 kilo of parsnips peeled and chopped
  • ( 2 large onions sliced finely for the caramelised onion soup only)
  • 2 large onions chopped
  • 1lite of vegetable or chicken stock ( cubes or powder will suffice)
  • 300 mls crème fraiche
  • Salt and pepper to taste

For the caramelised soup, start off by gently sautéing the sliced onions in butter or olive oil until they are crispy and brown, remove from pan and drain on paper towel. Put to one side.

In a clean pan, add some more olive oil and sauté the chopped onions, until soft but white. Add the parsnips, and then the stock and simmer until the parsnips are very soft. Purée them in a blender or hand blender, return to the pan and stir in the crème fraiche ( or cream ), season to taste with salt and pepper.

When making a curried version, whilst sauteing the onion add a tablespoon of spoon of curry powder and mix / sauté with the onions and then follow as above.

When making the Mushroom version, just follow the original version but adding the mushrooms to the sautéed onions and fry until they are soft before adding the parsnips and stock.

For the caramelised version serve with a few of the onions floating on top of the soup, and for the others garnish with some coriander, parsley or rocket leaves.

Crêpe Suzette? Why not Crêpe Jane? Or Alice?

Have you ever wondered how a dish of food got its name ? I have, why, Crêpe Suzette? And not Crêpe Jane? Is Suzette more exotic than Jane and was she real? Caesar Salad, a Pavlova, Peach Melba, or even Melba Toast! What about Eggs Benedict or Fettucini Alfredo, or Sachertorte or what about Tarte Tatin ? And Omelette Arnold Bennett? The list is endless, from Apples and Pears to Cherries to Clementines and Candy bars, to Biscuits, to Sauces to Pizza to Sandwiches to children’s cocktails ( a Shirley Temple). It would seem that many, many food items have been named after famous and not so famous people, and I’ve not forgotten Mr. Clarence BirdsEye, thought of as the fathers of the frozen food industry! I’m sure most of us have enjoyed Birdseye products, the most common one being frozen peas! Maybe I can pretend that Crêpes Suzette are named after me, or my moniker Oysters and Champagne, I do love Oysters Rockefeller after all !

I have been wanting to make Omelette Arnold Bennett, not sure why, but the name intrigued me. Apparently this was created by a chef at the Savoy London for Arnold Bennett ( an author) and he actually resided for a while at this hotel, and this was his absolute favourite meal !

Now I am not a fan of smoked haddock ( except maybe in Fish Pie) but I cook it for himself not infrequently, but usually poached or grilled on a bed of sautéed spinach and maybe with a poached egg on top. However this a new dish for me to make , it is rich and flavourful and himself loved it! An extra string to my theoretical smoked haddock bow !And I might try this with a white fish for me!

Some recipes, call for a Béchamel sauce ( named after Louis de Béchamel and was apparently introduced in France in 1533), and yet others call for a hollandaise sauce. I think I prefer the Hollandaise version, although it is richer, it is not anywhere near as thick as the Béchamel.I apologise that the instruction seem rather long, they are not really just a bit detailed! Remember Practice makes perfect, or if at first you don’t succeed etc etc!

  • To make this rather decadent omelette you will need ( this is enough for 2)
  • 250 grams smoked Haddock, preferably not dyed (that’s the yellow looking version )
  • 250mls whole milk
  • Clove of garlic chopped or squeezed
  • 6 tablespoons double or thick cream 8 eggs and grated Parmesan and chives or chopped parsley to serve
  • For the sauce

  • egg yolks
    2 tbsp of white wine vinegar
    1/2 lemon, juiced
    1 pinch of salt
    250g of unsalted butter or Ghee
  • I use a stick blender to make my Hollandaise, if you don’t have one use whatever whisk you have, but a stick is easier ( in my opinion). Usually a stick blender comes with a tall container, if you don’t have one use a tall jar, make sure it is tall enough so that the blender reaches the bottom and best to be have a flat bottom and as such a 500ml glass storage jar is perfect!
  • Separate the egg yolks from the whites being careful not to get any white into the yolks. Leave the egg whites to make meringue!
  • For hollandaise we need pure butter and so either use Ghee or – melt the butter until hot, and pour off the milk solids and this is one occasion that I do not use the microwave as i often end up with butter splattered all over the microwave and a clean up job to do as well. Keep the clear butter hot in pan whilst beating the egg yolks.
  • Beat the yolks with salt, white wine vinegar, lemon – just briefly, with a handheld blender stick! Pour in the hot butter whilst whisking with blender – pouring slowly is the key to make sure you have a curdle free sauce and that it blends together to make a thick creamy sauce . It will soon thicken and look like mayonnaise that it emulsifies (ie yolks and butter mix together to become a thick creamy sauce rather than staying runny) AND that the hot butter doesn’t cook the yolks! The sauce will start to thicken and look mayonnaise-like very quickly.
  • If for any reason it is not working sometimes adding an extra egg yolk will turn things around ( if not then maybe it’s time to try again!) Adjust thickness – if your sauce is still too thick, then add hot tap water 1 teaspoon at a time until it is thin enough to be drizzled. Dont make it too thin – Hollandaise Sauce should completely cover the eggs in Eggs Benedict and a bit thicker for Omelette Arnold Bennett! Use immediately !

Poach the haddock in the heated milk along with the onion, bay leaves and clove until the flesh flakes readily: about 5 minutes. Remove the haddock from the milk, remove the skin and flake the fish into a large mixing bowl and leave to cool.

Whilst the haddock is cooking make the sauce as above.

Preheat a hot grill.

Heat a little clarified butter in a non-stick omelette pan. Whisk the 4 eggs add half of the cream and make an omelette, but don’t cook it through.

Tip out of the pan onto a heatproof serving plate and spoon over half of the cooked haddock. Spoon over half the hollandaise mix and place under the grill until it begins to glaze. Make the second omelette while that is glazing and finish it in the same way.

Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and chives and serve.

Too Late for Shrove Tuesday But better still Beef Short Ribs

I’m sorry a bit late about Pancakes but better late than never, after all one can eat pancakes/ crepes any time of the year. Yes Shrove Tuesday, ( aka in the UK at least ) is Pancake Day. Himself has become the pancake maker in chief, he makes them for our various grandchildren when they come to stay. Our own children ate them regularly for breakfast at weekends with 2 of them vying for the position of #1 Pancake Eater, especially when spread with Nutella! Yes even back then, Nutella was very much on the menu.

Nowadays the only time we eat pancakes is if we are in the mountains and stop at a cafe for lunch, and then it is always a savoury Crèpe.

Savoury crèpe are usually made ( in France at least) with Sarrasin ( buckwheat) flour and of course I have some in the pantry. Therefore the logical conclusion was to make a savoury one for dinner. For once I followed the instructions and have to say I was disappointed with what I made. I added more liquid than was stated and yet they were still too thick, so needed to add more. The finished result was OK, but obviously I need to try harder and make them again. Hence, there is no recipe but will share our dinner picture.

So now we are well into Lent, but that doesn’t mean that I’m not cooking or experimenting.

This last weekend we had the pleasure of our eldest granddaughter, 15 years and continuing with our self imposed tradition , theatre and dinner and an overnighter! Theatre the very funny and energetic Operation Mincemeat, her choice and then into China Town for Dim Sum! The downside was she needed to meet her Volleyball team at 7.15 am ! Consequently, by 7.am, I had packed breakfast and lunch, made a fruit crumble and cooked, what we call Mexican Eggs for Breakfast as well as packing up some beef short ribs to Sous Vide for dinner ! phew, I have to say I function better in the morning.

I had fancied cooking short ribs for a while, but this time around and managed to buy some in Selfridges Food Hall, not the cheapest place to shop, but at least it was only a 2 stop bus ride.

For those of you who have a Sous Vide machine, it is very simple to do the pre cook. Simply seal the meat in bags, heat the water bath to 150 F and I cooked mine for 6 hours. Cooking via Sous Vide, is a bit of Give it a Try, as books and online instructions vary enormously and the timings go anything from a few hours to 2 days !

Then, remove from water bath, open the sealed bags and pat the meat dry. In a cast iron pan put about large knob of unsalted butter and sear the meat on both sides , cover and roast with the bone side upper most. Cook at 170 C( fan oven) for about an hour. At this time, the fat within the ribs, should have just melted away and the meat falling off the bone. I served with a sauce.

  • Knob of unsalted butter
  • 1Onion chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, coriander, ginger, cayenne pepper
  • 1Tablespoon tomato paste
  • Juice of 2 oranges
  • Cup of tomato juice or half a can of chopped tomatoes
  • 3 Oz dark or cooking chocolate
  • 1tablespoon dark brown sugar.

Melt the butter in a pan, add the onion till soft. Add the spices and when blended add the tomato sauce and paste. Add the orange juice, brown sugar and chocolate. Simmer a little until thick and unctuous. Pour over the ribs and serve.

I served them with some plain new potatoes and sautéed sweetheart cabbage.

If you don’t have a sous vide machine then it is equally easy to basically follow the above except cook the ribs in the oven for about 3 hours ( at least) until they are tender and falling off the bone.

And if that wasn’t enough, somewhere during this, I decided that we would have one of my all time favourites Oysters Rockefeller! Why is this dish called Rockefeller? Well according to legend, the dish was created in 1899 by Jules Alciatore at Antoines. It was a well kept secret but another chef claims to have written down the recipe courtesy of Alciatore. But Rockefeller the name ? The dish is as sumptuous as Rockefeller is Rich.

There are of course as many variations. I like them made with spring onions, celery, breadcrumbs,Tabasco, spinach grated parmesan cheese and as I don’t have any Absinth I use Pernod.

SIMPLE APPLE TARTS WITH CRÈME ANGLAISE

I have to admit that this is not totally my idea, But ! Whilst whiling my time idly away during our 6 weeks in the French Alps, I came across this idea, and honestly cannot remember where, ( somewhere on line) I had to quickly make some notes mentally and then on a scrap of paper and now back in the UK, I reconstructed it. What is it? Simple instant Apple pies, it could also be made with pears!

So this is what you need

  • 2 sheets of either frozen puff pastry or chilled puff pastry. Easy to buy in the UK, but much of the frozen / chilled pastry in France, tends to be in circles, either for a tart or for pizza.
  • 3-6 apples, peeled and cored
  • Some soft brown sugar
  • Water to seal the pastry
  • Beaten egg to glaze the pastry
  • Some chopped nuts
  • Some runny Honey

The reason I have said 3-6 apples, ( I used Cox Orange Pippin as I had them already, but do use an eating apple and not as in the UK Cooking Apples) .Himself loved the tart, so much so, he had one for his dessert and one for breakfast, BUT he said, Not Enough Apple!

  • Lightly grease a baking tray, big enough to gold a sheet of pastry.
  • If using three apples, cut them in half and place them, equi distant on the pastry.
  • Pour some sugar into the centre of each apple
  • Wet the pastry in between the apples with the water and place the second sheet of pastry on top of the the first and apples.
  • Carefully, press down to seal the packages in between the apples and also the outer edges
  • Cut a cross in the middle of each and sprinkle some chopped nuts on top ( into the hole as well) then pour over some honey also into the hole.
  • Bake at 180 Fan/ 200 for about 20 minutes, until the pastry is golden. Serve with your choice of topping! However, if you are like himself and want more apple, this is what you can do. Using the whole apple proceed as above, but on a floured board carefully roll the top sheet of pastry to make it a bit larger, but just large enough, don’t over stretch it.

And of course, you could also add some ground almonds mixed with egg and sugar to the apples before making the little pies!

My childhood was spent in a traditional home of the day. My mother didn’t work but she really did, no vacuum cleaners, no washing machines, no cleaner to come in and help. And on Sundays she really worked, a cooked breakfast, followed by a Sunday Lunch, followed by Afternoon Tea. She cooked, she baked, made cakes galore. When cake mixes and packaged goods came onto the market, she along with many of her housewife friends experimented with these new fangled goods.

It was only as an adult that I realised that Lemon Meringue Pie could be made without a packet mix ( available on Amazon) and that Custard had another name ( Crème Anglaise) could be made without a product called BIRDS CUSTARD POWDER! Today, it is once again all change, ready made pies and tarts along with ready made sauces and custards. Having scrolled through an online shopping list, I am actually amazed at how many, mixes and ready made cakes/ pies are available, but weirdly No Lemon Meringue Pie mix!

Making your own Crème Anglaise is a piece of cake! I make it in the Microwave but just as easy on a stove top.

  • 300 mls double/ thick cream
  • 2-4 Oz castor sugar
  • Juice of a large lemon and Zest
  • 2 eggs beaten ( remove any of CHALAZE the white bits that attach the yolk to the shell)

Then, either heat the cream/sugar/lemon juice/ zest in a pan or at one minute burst in a microwave, heat until just boiling. When it is boiling, pour over the beaten eggs and stir to mix quickly. Return to the heat and, stir on the stove top or heat in one minute intervals in the microwave. This should take just a couple of minutes,man’s the sauce is done. If it is too thick, dilute with some more cream. Can be made ahead of time, can be served/ poured cold, can be reheated gently if serving hot! If keeping ( made ahead of time) either put in a refrigerator box, or in a jug and cover the top with some cling foil to stop a skin forming!

EGGS BENEDICT!

Who doesn’t love Eggs Benedict? Well my second daughter for one, she hates Hollandaise sauce, so that is definitely out !

We have found here in the French Alps, a cafe come smart home decor place ( not sure how long it will last), but himself has fallen in love with their Eggs Benedict. He often has it for lunch at our golf club in the UK, which actually does a good job from their kitchen, a good effort all round and the price is right ( same standard ( but many more £££) as our previous golf club that was bought by Indias Richest man who promptly threw us all out!. Therefore he considers himself as a bit of a connoisseur in the Eggs Benedict department. These however raised the stakes to a new level, almost a work of art and apparently tasted equally good. ( note I am personally not commenting, as I haven’t eaten either!)

Therefore if you happen to be an Eggs Benedict lover, here we go! Of course it is a bit of a Pfaff to make but for special occasions, such as a birthday treat or Valentine’s Day, it is well worth it.

  • For 2 people
  • 4 eggs ( to be poached)
  • 4 English Muffins toasted
  • 4 slices of good ham or crispy bacon if preferred
  • Some chopped chives for garnish
  • Hollandaise Sauce
  • 4 tablespoons white wine, or white wine vinegar
  • 2 shallots finely chopped
  • Half dozen black peppercorns
  • 175 grms butter cut into chunks
  • 3 egg yolks
  • Juice of half lemon
  • Pinch salt

Start of by toasting the muffins ( wrap in a clean cloth to keep warm and then poach the eggs. Everyone has their own method of poaching eggs, some create a vortex by whisking the water before popping in the eggs so that the white doesn’t spread but really only works for a couple of eggs at a time. So my way is to bring a shallow pan of water to the boil ( reduce to a simmer) and add a couple of dessert spoons of distilled vinegar. Do not add any salt. Crack the eggs individually into a cup or small dishes and slide the eggs into the water. Cover with a lid and leave for 3 minutes with the water just about simmering. After 3 minutes the eggs should be opaque. If not ready to serve, remove from the simmering water with a slotted spoon and slide them into a dish with warm water.

Make the sauce, if you have sufficient confidence to do the eggs and sauce simultaneously then go ahead, but of course a sous chef also comes in handy. However the sauce is made, this is the way to do it!

  • Put the vinegar/wine shallots and peppercorns in a saucepan and boil until it has reduced bay a third. Strain it into a jug or bowel.
  • Melt the butter,in a pan, skim the surface until only the clear liquid remains
  • In yet another pan heat some water until simmering, place a bowl over it, add the egg yolks and the wine reduction, beat with a whisk until it is thick. Remove from the heat and whisk whilst adding the butter to make a thick creamy sauce. If by any chance the sauce separates, beat another yolk with a drop of warm water, then add the separated sauce into this extra egg and the sauce should come back to a smooth creamy sauce..
  • Butter the muffins,place the ham or bacon on top, pop under the grill just to get make sure they are all warm.
  • Drain the eggs, place on top of the ham /bacon and ladle over the sauce. Garnish with the chives or with whatever takes your fancy!

Other versions are Arlington with Smoked Salmon and not ham, or Florentine which is vegetarian and made with Spinach.

And of course hollandaise sauce can be made in the microwave, again a little bit of practice is all that is needed.

Basically the same ingredients and method, but simply put the butter into a microwave glass bowl and cook on high for about 1 minute, until just melted. Add the egg yolks and whisk until well mixed. Cook on high for 1-1/2 minutes on high but whisking every 15 seconds until thick and creamy. Season with a little pepper. Use as above.

Many of you already know that I make my own yoghurts and for the last year or so, I have had a plain yogurt with berries and maybe a smidgeon of maple syrup for breakfast. But this has changed! Whilst rummaging in my freezer ( actually I don’t rummage as I do know where stuff is, )but had a minor inadvertent rearrange recently, and so in putting things back in the correct order, I found my little jar of lemon curd! Yes FROZEN! And the reason it was frozen was very simple, it was MICROWAVED Lemon Curd and it has a very short shelf life.

To make Lemon Curd ( orange or grapefruit ).

  • 4 lemons, finely grated rind and juice
  • 4 eggs very well beaten
  • 225 grms (8 oz ) caster sugar
  • 100 grms (4oz) unsalted butter cut into chunks
  • Put all of the ingredients into a microwave proof bowl making sure that you have removed any pips.
  • Cook on high for 5-6 minutes until the mixture is thick, whisking every minute.
  • Remove from the microwave and and continue whisking every couple of minutes until the mixture is cool, it really thickens upon cooling. Pour into hot sterilised jars. I use these little Kilner type jars, I keep a couple in the refrigerator and scoop a teaspoon of the yummy ness into my yogurt and the others I freeze.
  • This makes about 900 grms (2lbs)

And nothing to do with any of this BUT Rural France seems to have a novel way of Fast Food. I am not sure that Deliveroo, or Uber Eats operate in the mountains, but it is feasible to get a pizza 24/7 or other food requirements from modern vending machines! I have to admit that I’ve not tried any of them and have no idea of the cost nor the quality!

Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame?

I sat here watching the snow fall and wondered what I should do for the day! Well apart from the obvious snow sports, of course, in which I no longer participate, I could go shopping! That too is a challenge and actually it only really means food shopping, or at least a trip to the supermarket.

In reality I find French supermarkets a bit depressing. To my mind ( and I admit to being critical here) they tend to be really rather tatty, buildings a bit run down, the larger ones surrounded by low end little shops and very badly laid out , whilst the smaller ones, dispense with the low end shops but nonetheless are not very inspiring.

Here in the mountains our local is a small Carrefour and infact is more or less a one stop shop, insomuch as you can buy your socks and bras, sheets and baby clothes as well as in summer garden furniture and in winter a snow shovel, all of course in a very limited kind of way. Of course wine abounds as does fizzy bottles of drinks and chocolate! Do the French really have an obsession with chocolate? Well it would appear that they do!

Having just scrolled through the OCADO (UK) website, they have +/- 220 variations of breakfast cereals, of which approximately only 20 contain chocolate ( and Quelle Horreur even Weetabix)!

However, I was truly shocked in my little local supermarket at the amount of cereals which contained chocolate, almost the whole shelf in fact !

I have come to the conclusion that ( in my mind at least) the weekly outdoor markets in almost every town compensate for the rather shabby supermarkets and very often the indifference of their staff. Whereas the markets are vibrant with excellent quality and sunny personalities for the most part.

So far this trip we haven’t ventured into our local markets but did drive along to Chamonix where they hold a substantial market every Saturday. But on no account do they let it interfere with Lunch! Lunch is very important , so the market shuts down around midday or by 1 pm at the latest. Nearly all shops shut for lunch, 12-2 or even 12-3 and don’t open on Sundays! So it really is a case of The Early Bird catches the Worm!

Having said that Lunch is important and what I really like, more is a Brunch type, late breakfast or an early lunch is a Croque Monsieur or better still a Croque Madame. The best I have ever had was in fact in Mexico City in a little cafe called Lado. We ate breakfast/ brunch out often on our regular visits to Mexico . LALO was one of the favourites and the other which was good morning noon or night was LARDO, similar name but a very different eatery.

Onto Les Croques, Monsieur/ Madame/ Maman or simply toasted cheese and ham! But a good Croque is so much more than a toasted cheese sandwich. Unfortunately, in many ski resorts and also in many cafes, the art of making such a simple but delicious gourmet delight have disappeared, some buy in ready to throw under the grill whilst others just throw something together and call it a Croque.

There are many many variations including ones with pastrami and chilli jam or a Senorita which comes with manchego cheese, paprika and chorizo salami. But my true favourite is a Croque Madame with the béchamel sauce and a fried egg on top.

For 2 people

  • 4 slices of super bread, ( seeded, brioche, challah,sourdough) just don’t use cheap bread.
  • 4 slices of good quality ham ( no fat and cut to fit the bread)
  • 100 grams grated cheese, preferably Gruyère or Comté cheese ( Failing those use Emmental.
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard.
  • 2 eggs (4 if you want 2 pp)
  • For the sauce:-
  • 300 mls whole milk
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 35 grms plain flour
  • Pinch of each ground nutmeg, pepper and salt

To make the sauce, ( I always make it in a microwave but this is the conventional method). Melt the butter in a smallish saucepan, add the flour stirring to blend with a wooden spoon, slowly add the milk stirring all the while, the mixture will thicken as it cooks.Add the salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stand to one side.

Set the oven grill on high. Lightly toast the bread. Brush two slices with the mustard, add the ham and then much of the cheese, cover this with a thin layer of the sauce. Top with the remaking bread slices and pour over the sauce and top with the reaming cheese.

Pop under a hot grill and simply fry the eggs whilst the Croque is browning but be careful not to over brown ( ie.burn).

Serve at once, piping hot!

Of course, you can have it without the eggs!

Back in France

On New Years Day, we decamped to the mountains (again), Himself has new skis and boots, so Needs must! Here we are! I have brought projects with me and am unlikely to complete them whilst here (6 weeks). However as it is very cold in The UK ( golf courses closed) we might as well be here, where Himself doesn’t get Cabin Fever and I am happy to potter.

I always chuckle to myself when grocery shopping here as it really is not consumer oriented. At our local store ( no self service checkout) , just don’t forget to weigh your fruit and vegetables, otherwise you will be forced to go back ( much to the chagrin of those in the queue) or just simply say you no longer need it! Similarly in the discount stores, usually with a Huff and a Puff on top. There again, don’t forget to shake your shopping bag to demonstrate that you haven’t stolen anything. Are the French less trustworthy? I’ve no idea! But it is certainly a different shopping experience.

Himself likes soup for lunch, especially here. I usually raid the freezer to see what must be used up ( frozen lettuce for example, a good base to start with.) Today, in the refrigerator, I found a butternut squash ( I had brought it with me from England), that spoke to me and so I decided to make a soup which had a Mexican flavour. Our eldest daughter lived in Mexico City for 5 years and we sorely miss our visits there. The climate was lovely and the food was wonderful but unfortunately it is a country that has huge crime with the drug cartels. Their youngest was born there and ironically is the only family member who doesn’t speak Spanish ( but he does have a Mexican Passport)!

To make enough soup for 6 ( it freezes well )

  • A Butternut squash, peeled, de-seeded and chopped into smallish chunks
  • 1/4 C olive oil
  • 2+ dried Ancho Chillies
  • 2 medium onions, peeled and sliced
  • 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic peeled
  • 2 peppers, any colour
  • 300 grms sour cream
  • Small can chick peas
  • Salt to taste
  • 1-2 teaspoons Smoked paprika
  • 1 1/2 litres chicken or vegetable stock
  • Chopped coriander ( cilantro) to garnish
  • I also went off plan a little and added some celery and courgette.

Heat the oven to 220 , put the squash on a baking tray and roast, this gives the soup a better flavour but can be omitted.

Soak the Ancho peppers in boiling water and when soft, cut off the tops ( discard) and remove the seeds.

Sauté the vegetables in the olive oil, add the Ancho chillies and the butternut squash when cooked, along with the stock, paprika and the chick peas.

When everything is cooked and soft, blend, either in a blender/ food processor or a hand blender until smooth. Add the sour cream. Taste add salt if needed and then the sour cream.

Serve with a garnish of chopped coriander.

Ancho Chilles are one of the most popular chiles in Mexican cuisine. Fresh they are Poblano but dried become Ancho.They are mild in heat but have a deep fruit and chocolate flavour. Very versatile, easy to use and can be found whole or flaked or powdered. Ancho chillies have a heat on the Scoville scale of 1,000 to 2,000 whereas Bell peppers are 0-100, and Habanero chillies come in at plus 10,000!

Of course there are many ways to use Squash and pumpkins and another way is a simple curry.

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 4 cardamom pods
  • 2white onions finely chopped
  • 3 crushed cloves garlic
  • An inch of fresh ginger grated
  • 2tsp of each, ground coriander, ground cumin, mild chilli powder ( ancho is good), and 1 tsp turmeric
  • 2 tbsp tomato purée
  • 500 grms squash or pumpkin cut into chunks
  • Small can of chick peas
  • 150 mls full fat yoghurt
  • 500 mls vegetable stock
  • Chopped coriander to garnish
  • Cooked basmati rice to serve.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the cardamom pods, then add the onions and cook for about 10 minutes, but don’t let burn.

Add the garlic, ginger and the spices, cook for about 2 minutes. Then add the tomato paste, stir well to mix and then add the squash/pumpkin, stir in and then add the stock. Bring to a boil, turn down to a simmer, and add the chicken peas. Simmer for about 15-20 minutes, until the squash/pumpkin is soft, remove from heat, taste adjust seasoning ( maybe some salt). Stir in the yoghurt!

Serve with rice and the chopped coriander.

Post Christmas

No! I have not emigrated , nor slipped on the ice but I did get stuck in traffic ( though living in London that is always a possibility)! Actually I telephoned himself the other week simply to say “ I’m stuck in traffic! Where he asked, around the corner was the reply. Our wonderful Mayor had approved road works on three of my surrounding roads, not just any roads but Seriously Main roads, which meant that All of the buses and everything else was diverted! Of course it could have been done between Christmas and New Year, but maybe that was just too obvious!

Moving swiftly on, I read a comment in The Times the other day that amused me greatly. It said ( many thanks Anne Treneman)

My children, who are now adults, do not shock easily except when it comes to the fraught area of food storage. They consult the packaging on all refrigerated items as though God himself had decreed that the cottage cheese went bad two days ago ( perfectly fine, in my opinion). I do not believe in Sell-by dates, which are wildly risk adverse.

Our lodger ( middle child who came for a couple of weeks and stayed for 3 months) declared she would not and could not eat the eggs which I was about to use! ( I solved the issue by blotting out any dates on future products)! Common sense must apply especially given the fact that the UK throws away mountains of food. I blame the Nanny state, it gives Use By dates, or Best Before dates, even things that NEVER go off have dates! which for many today MEANS throw it Away ! What happened to the Sniff test!?

  • Over ⅓ of all food produced globally goes to waste.
  • The UK throws away around 9.5 million tonnes of food waste in a single year – even though 8.4 million people in the UK are in food poverty.
  • Billions of pounds are wasted each year when food is disposed of unnecessarily.

This Christmas was nothing to do with me. We were invited to spend it out of London at our sons, along with daughter in law and our three youngest grandchildren who are still in Awe of Santa! Such a lovely period of their lives.

However, the other half of the family along with the 3 eldest grandchildren came for lunch and Pantomine before the Big Day.

I decided to cook Salmon Kouilibiac (Coulibiac), basically Salmon en Croute, slightly upmarket than that but it is salmon in pastry.It was once the dinner of the Tsars when it was called Kulebyaka, before the French took charged and renamed it! But today, simply calling it Salmon Wellington works as well !

It is very simple to make especially if using shop bought puff pastry or Phyllo pastry which I love to use. It can be made as individual portions or as a side of salmon.

  • Side of salmon ( skin removed, ask the fishmonger to do it)
  • Packet of prewashed spinach
  • 6 hard boiled eggs chopped
  • 2 cups of precooked rice ( optional)
  • 2 cups of precooked chopped mushrooms ( optional)
  • 2cups cooked beetroot chopped ( optional)
  • 2 packets of puff pastry or phyllo pastry ( if using phyllo about 4 Oz of butter is also needed)
  • Créme fraiche
  • Fresh dill fronds
  • Salt/pepper/dijon mustard
  • Beaten egg to glaze

This can be prepared ahead of time but otherwise:-

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Trim the sides off the salmon, ( keep/freeze for future use)

Season one side with the mustard, salt and pepper.

Cook the spinach, it can be cooked in the bag in a microwave on high for only 3 minutes. Drain and squeeze out much of the moisture.

Roll out the puff pastry ( see below for phyllo), place onto a greased baking tray and then lay the salmon on top, layer on top of this, whatever you are using, but I used spinach and chopped egg. Fold over the pastry as in a parcel, wetting the lower part with some water before pressing down the tops side ( sealed). You can decorate the top of the parcel with pastry leaves or simple cross cuts. Either refrigerate until ready to use or just simply bake in the preheated oven for about 30 mins.

Chop the dill fronds and mix with the créme fraiche to serve on the side. This all goes well with some small new potatoes and maybe salad.

If using the phyllo pastry, you will need about 6/8 sheets, which have been layered with butter, proceed as above finishing with a coating of butter. This parcel can be embellished with some scrunched up phyllo pastry, sat on top of the melted butter, with some more butter drizzled over the top.