Thanksgiving or Pre Christmas?

Thanksgiving or Pre Christmas?

I actually didn’t get Thanksgiving when we lived in the USA. I couldn’t understand why what was a Harvest Festival should take place in late November. However it did start as a kind of Harvest Festival in 1621 as the new settlers had had a good harvest that year. Apparently it wasn’t until Lincoln in 1863 declared it a national holiday and in 1941 Roosevelt to abolish the confusion of which Thursday in November stated that it would be the fourth Thursday in November.

The USA is not the only country to celebrate Thanksgiving others included Austria, Brazil, Liberia, Canada, Switzerland and Germany, though whilst living there I do not recall any type of Thanksgiving celebration. However it all stems from giving Thanks for a good harvest.

I always felt that it was way too close to Christmas but I don’t think that I have ever cooked a TRADITIONAL Christmas dinner, let alone a Thanksgiving one , however, this year somehow or other we are having a family dinner, here next Sunday. Fortunately we changed our dining table about 2 years ago, so now we can seat 14 easily and on a round table !

So I have been thinking and planning now for a few weeks. We will be 14 ranging from age 81 to 3 years old. Actually the little ones eat well, with a favourite dish being Pad Thai, whilst the older grandchildren have gone from being the most difficult children in the world to being gourmet diners, with oysters, squid, octopus and steak tartare amongst their favourites!

My FESENJAM ( aubergine dish which I made a few weeks ago) is safely stored in the freezer, along with dishes of buttered mashed winter root vegetables ( carrots , Swede, turnip, celeriac, parsnips). Passion fruit and mango ice cream, likewise has been made and obviously frozen. Another must for Himself and son in law is a crumble, it varies with the seasons, and this one is no different, being made with plums, apple and frozen mixed berries. This too is frozen ready to go.

One of my favourite do ahead potato dishes is gnocchi made with potatoes. It is a bit fiddly , but it can be made over several days and freezes really well, which means that double or treble the quantity can be made, well in advance , flat frozen ( so they don’t stick together) and some can be pulled out as needed. I made enough for 14 people so I used several kilos of potatoes, but here is the basic recipe, which can be easily doubled or trebled.

1 kilo of potatoes

135 grams of plain flour

130 grams grated Parmesan cheese

1 whole egg, beaten together with 2 yolks

Teaspoon salt

Peel the potatoes, cut into chunks and boil gently until cooked . Drain and leave to cool. When cool push through a potato ricer ( or sieve), into a bowl.

Add the flour, cheese and beaten eggs and mix well ( can use an electric mixer). Place sheets of cling film on the work surface and spoon 20-25 cm of mixture on the cling film, leaving space at each end to to tie the ends up. Repeat until all of the mixture has been used.

Boil some water and cook the gnocchi rolls for 15 minutes, and then place in some iced water to cool them down. At this point, they can be refrigerated overnight.

Stage 2, unwrap the gnocchi and cut into

2 cms slices. Put some flour into a dish, dust the gnocchi with the flour and fry in butter or olive oil until golden brown on both sides. Drain on some kitchen paper paper and then place on a flat baking tray. Repeat until all of the gnocchi mixture has been used. At this point the gnocchi maybe flat frozen until needed.

To use, simply defrost, and reheat either in a frying pan or in the oven. They can also be used as a small starter or as a canapé. for example with a tomato fondue or mango chutney ( can be bought) or as a canapé, with Parma ham and blue cheese.

Moving on, I made my ice cream. When passion fruits were very much in season I bought several and kept the pulp which I froze until ready to use. I always use Ben and Jerry’s basic recipes for making ice cream and this time was no exception. According to Ben and Jerry ( they are real people) the list of fruit ice creams is pretty endless, with Banana having no added sugar to apples and raspberries needing a fair amount. However, I would go with the basic and have a taste ( what a good excuse) and add more if it is too tart. They didn’t actually have a passion fruit recipe, so I had to wing it, starting with a sweet cream base. However before you start switch on your ice cream maker if you have one to make sure it is cold OR have a container in the freezer also that it is cold.

  • 3 Cups double or whipping cream
  • 3 whole eggs whisked for about 2 minutes
  • 1 1/2 cups caster sugar
  • 1 very ripe mango chopped into small bits
  • Pulp of 5+ passion fruit

To the beaten eggs add the sugar and blend well , then add the cream and finally the fruit.

Pour into the container / freezer unit/ ice cream maker .

If you are simply pouring into a container in your freezer, then give it a stir about every hour so that it freezes well throughout. Cover until ready to use.

I did go a bit overboard with desserts, it is something I only do for guests, so I made a burnt basque cheesecake ( in a long tin for ease of serving)with blackberries, chocolate and coffee semifreddo,mixed fruit crumble with crème anglaise, passion fruit ice cream and brandy snaps.

Brandy snaps, I haven’t made in years but they are easy and fun to make.


50g of caster sugar
50g of golden syrup or corn syrup
50g of butter
1 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp brandy
50g of plain flour
1/2 tsp ground ginger
Preheat an oven to 170°C/150 *C fan /gas mark 3

Place the sugar, golden syrup, butter, lemon juice and brandy in a small saucepan and heat gently to melt butter and to dissolve the sugar
Leave to cool slightly adding the flour and ginger, beat to a smooth paste

Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper and drop 4 Teaspoons of the mixture at intervals along the tray. Smooth out into a circle with the back of the teaspoon.

Bake for 6–8 minutes until golden brown

Leave to cool slightly before rolling around the handle of a wooden spoon to shape or can be moulded round a cup cake. Place on a wire cooling rack and leave to set until hard and cool. Can be eaten as they are, filled with cream, dipped in molten chocolate . Best eaten on the day they are made but if any are left they should be stored in an airtight container!

Happy Shopping

Aubergine or Egg Plant?

Aubergine or Egg Plant?

I had wanted to use some Aubergines and consequently had 4 largish ones sitting in my refrigerator saying “USE ME”. I like deep fried ones, but seriously they scream Calories ! What about Moussaka? For me it says, shepherds pie, or lasagna, neither of which I am interested in eating, or Aubergine Parmigiana, yummy ! But oh so calorie rich!

Looking at various books and the web, I came up with FESENJAM. This historically is from what is now Iran ( Persia) and it was a golden age of Persian cooking, but as with much of the Middle East, it is a favourite in Iraq , Israel where it is a feast dish for Rosh Hashanah , and even in Azerbaijan.

This version is vegetarian but can also be made with chicken, duck, lamb or even beef. It is enhanced by using some of the ingredients of the Middle East, such as pomegranate molasses, spices such as cinnamon, turmeric, crushed cardamom, pomegranate seeds and dried orange peel.

Vegetables need not be boring, but growing up that is what they were! Cabbage boiled to the last inch of its life, Brussels Sprouts were rock hard round things, peas fresh from the garden, were as hard as bullets. Little wonder that I fell in love with CHIPS! My mother even made me every morning to send me on my way to school Fried potatoes and my uncle would cook me my own special Christmas dinner…… Chips! Oh was I a fussy eater. Raw carrots ( fashionable with hummus these days) celery sandwiches for my school lunch! I didn’t eat Meat, Fish, Eggs and only raw vegetables! By the time I went to college I had moved on to eating fish and had to lie in the canteen on a Friday ! Fish was only for Catholics! Imagine what it was like when I had to cook and taste TRIPE! Actually, I haven’t seen tripe in shops for years, not even in butchers that specialise in ‘Forgotten Cuts of Meat’ But what is it?

I was 23 when I ate my first steak and 24 my first egg! My how times have changed!

Tripe is the edible lining from the stomachs of various farm animals, most commonly cows and sheep. So in fact offal, a source of protein, and I have just looked it up and if you are desperate to try, it is available in certain farm shops in the UK and butchers in France ( and other countries I’m sure), and in fact a whole range of “old” cuts are available online and for delivery!

But back to FESENJAM.

Ingredients:-

  • 4 large aubergines, sliced
  • 150 mls olive oil
  • 300 grams walnuts
  • 2 large onions chopped
  • 3-4 cloves garlic crushed
  • 2 tablespoons tomato purée
  • Teaspoon each of ground cinnamon and turmeric
  • 700 mls hot vegetable stock
  • 1-2 teaspoons rose harissa
  • 150 grams pomegranate molasses
  • 100 grams pomegranate seeds
  • A sprinkling of ready fried onions ( available in Indian stores) optional
  • A sprinkle of dried orange peel optional

Preheat the oven to 220C/180 fan/gas7

Put the 3/4 of the oil in a bowl. Add the aubergines and a pinch of salt, mix well. Lay the aubergine out on a non stick baking tray, and bake for about 30 minutes, turning over once. Remove when golden and set to one side.

Using a food processor, whizz the walnuts, until chunky crumbs ( or put into a polythene bag and roll them under a rolling pin).

Heat the rest of the oil, add the onions then the garlic, then when the onions are basically cooked add the tomato paste, the spices and some salt and pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes, add the walnuts stirring well to mix, pour over the stock and molasses. Cook for about 30 minutes, covered but stirring often to avoid sticking.

Finish by stirring in the aubergines, heat for a few minutes more, and then serve along with the pomegranate seeds and additionally maybe orange rind and Indian fried onions to garnish.

Eat with naan, rice and salad.

Can be made more of a whole meal by adding cooked chicken pieces, or lamb.

Mine is now frozen for when there are more than two of us to eat it ( it is rich) and it freezes well!

Dishwasher Cooking

Dishwasher Cooking

Have you ever wanted to cook a whole side of Salmon, or even a whole salmon, perhaps a coulibiac ( sans Pastry) and haven’t been able to? No fish kettle? No pan big enough. The end is nigh! Use your DISHWASHER,!

I can hear the GASPS across the ether, but yes it is true!

When I want to cook a whole salmon fillet, into the dishwasher it goes! ( More Gasps)

You might be wondering how on earth a dishwasher can be used to cook fish. Well, the answer lies in the consistent and regulated temperature that dishwashers offer during their cycles.

Most dishwashers operate at temperatures around 120-150F or 49-66 C while these temperatures are typically used for cleaning, they can also be utilized for cooking or rather steaming.

Cooking fish in a dishwasher may be an unconventional method, but when done correctly, it can yield surprisingly delicious results. The steady temperature and steam inside a dishwasher makes it an ideal environment for gentle cooking. Just remember to choose the right fish, season it well. If you have a vacuum sealer then PERFECT, add any marinades etc and seal, or alternatively use several small portions individually packed for perhaps a dinner party, cooked ( dishwashered ) for a shorter time. Otherwise wrap your fish in several layers of aluminium foil making sure it is well sealed. Select the correct dishwasher cycle. I use my 40 C wash which takes just over an hour. Do not use any detergent and place the fish in the top shelf then sit back and enjoy the unique and energy-efficient experience of cooking fish in a dishwasher!

Then you can serve at once with maybe a Beurre Blanc or serve it cold, nicely decorated as part of maybe a buffet supper.

Other useful tips, which might or might not be conventional are:-

GINGER, don’t let your ginger become shriveled, don’t throw it away, slice and freeze it!

GARLIC, again, if you have for whatever reason a glut of garlic, turn it into confit garlic, ready to use at anytime.

AVOCADOS, I usually buy mine from Spain via Crowd Farming. Avocados only ripen after they are picked, so when they arrive, I put a couple out to ripen and the rest put into the refrigerator until needed! However, they do freeze well. Simply peal, slice or smushed along with some lemon juice, bag and freeze until needed.

POMEGRANATES, they are currently in season and are available as they are or sold as Rubies, ie just the bits. However once again, they are not difficult to get the pips out of the shell of a pomegranate, flat freeze and you are ready to go, especially for decoration. And an added piece of information, in France a popular cordial, which even to this day I import regularly for my adult children is Grenadine!

And finally Chillies, somehow I was at a local ethnic street market and the chillies were too good to pass up, so once again, they were flat frozen and bagged, ready to use when needed!

USE BY? BEST BEFORE? KEEP COOL? FREEZE? DO NOT FREEZE!

The UN has become concerned about food wastage, but this is not something new as September 29 is IDAFLW ( International Day of Awareness of Food Loss and Wastage) a bit of a mouthful but !

735 MILLION people go hungry everyday, with over 1Billion edible meals being just thrown away.

In the UK, we throw away 9.5million Tonnes of food each year, enough to feed 30 million people and yet there are over 8 million who live in food poverty. The numbers are staggering.

I do not throw food away, maybe I am of a different generation, my parents grew their own, potatoes were kept in a cool dark place, apples were wrapped in newspaper and also put in a dark cool place, beans/peas/carrots were bottled ( no freezer, nor refrigerator), and yet we always ate well, so why is it today with ready meals, fresh foods, frozen foods has it become such a wasteland of food?

Part of the reason, is food labelling, even the willowy brunette throws a fit if she even sees an egg that is one day older than the date on it, and yet that was not how she was raised. In the US, there are over 50 food labels, which adds to the confusion and yet for the most part it is not science based. There is an old adage which says give it a sniff test !

Interestingly, in the US eggs need to be refrigerated, whereas in Europe they do not! Why? All commercial eggs in Europe are from hens that have been vaccinated against Salmonella, the eggs are not washed and therefore retain their protective outer sheath ( you can’t see it), whereas in the US , hens are not vaccinated , the eggs washed and so removing the outer protective layer, which means that they need to be refrigerated! The stamp on EU eggs, state, Country/ farmer/ type of farm and date. Battery farming of chickens and eggs is banned. There is a simple test for eggs at least. Simply fill a bowl with water place the egg in; if it sinks, it’s fresh, if it stands upright, it’s still safe but not fresh, And if it floats, it’s no longer good to eat. Now that is easy !

As I just said, I do not throw food away food away, even a lettuce that is looking a bit tired, gets a second life, by being put in the freezer, ready to be put into some form of soup! Himself often has soup for lunch, especially in the winter, and if I can’t think of a particular type of soup to make, it becomes REFRIGERATOR SOUP, ie, anything that needs using goes into the soup. On that theme, one of my freezers was badly in need of of a defrost! And what did I find, frozen lettuce/ coriander and spinach. Soup called! So using the frozen ingredients, I added frozen peas and frozen green beans! Another refrigerator soup was made!

And then I made some mango chutney. Why ? I had a delivery of mangoes from Spain ( Crowdfarming) and had left them on the counter top to ripen, therefore time to make some chutney.

  • 3 firm mangoes, peeled and cut into chunks
  • 150 mls vinegar ( preferably cider)
  • 130 grms dark brown sugar
  • Small chunk fresh ginger grated
  • A crushed clove of garlic
  • 1/2tsp coriander powder
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 small chopped chilli

Put the mango and vinegar into a pan and cook gently for about 10 minutes. Add everything else, bring to the boil, stir to mix, reduce heat and cook gently for about 30 minutes. By this time it should be a thickish gluey mixture. Leave to cool a bit before pouting into clean sterilised jars.

Not long life, but too yummy to leave lying around! As this makes a small amount, I refrigerate one jar and freeze it the other !

Going on from chutney making, I decided to cook salmon for dinner, but inspired by my semi Indian chutney I need to make the salmon a bit Indian as well! With thanks to Gurdeep Loyal, I adapted his sauce. His recipe for Kopi( coffee) seared salmon. I didn’t have an ingredient called Kecap Manis, but discovered alternatives, using in my case several pantry staples.

  • 2 tablespoon sriracha
  • 2 tablespoons of this mixture, maple syrup, brown sugar,dark soy sauce.
  • 2 tsp instant espresso powder
  • A knob of ginger grated of a 1 tsp ginger powder
  • 2-3 cloves garlic pressed
  • 2 tablespoon honey
  • Zest and juice of lemon.
  • A dash sesame oil
  • Pinch of salt
  • Some toasted sesame seeds

Simply mix all of the above, and leave to blend together.

Using a non stick pan, heat just a little oil and put your salmon fillets skin side down. Cook for about 5 minutes until the skin is crisp , flip over cook for 30 seconds or so and then turn back.

Pour the sauce over the salmon, cook for another minute or so, don’t have the temperature too hot though. Serve on a bed of rice, or as I did on a bed of fishy risotto! ( fresh from the freezer! Or with broccoli or spinach or hispi cabbage ! ( I am in love with hispi cabbage!) And don’t forget to garnish!

I do have lots more to say, but enough is enough, so Bonne Appetite! Et à la prochaine!

Oysters and Champagne

OLD FASHIONED ?

I read the other day that English Heritage is concerned that traditional English dishes will soon not be cooked anymore, and as such have issued a new cookbook ( which I have ordered out of curiosity) , but also found that the Germans have also published such a book “GERMAN HERITAGE BAKING”.

Looking at my own book shelves I find that I have many really old recipe books some dating back to 1868! This particular one has such delights as Ox Head soup and boiled Turkey. Not sure I am about to cook either of these! However, items such as Ginger Snaps, Trifle, Meringues, Spotted Dick and Rock Cakes, the recipes are there, so maybe they will be included in the new cook book from English Heritage.

One of the books I have is a hand written notebook, complete with newspaper cuttings from 1923. It also included advice on hair brushing ( a cause of dandruff?) how to deal with snake bites, make ginger cake and even better FAGGOTS! If you have never heard of them, don’t worry, they are a bit like meat balls!

Back in London, my English Heritage cookbook arrived, well the first one went walkabout but dear Amazon sent an instant replacement. It is a nice enough little book, but I found some errors! Firstly though this not an error, there no temperatures given for Fan Ovens, which I personally would prefer and also temperatures not in Fahrenheit, which many people do still use. So that is me being picky! However two recipes which are not part of the English Heritage, firstly Brownies. Brownies were invented in the USA, in the late 19th century with the first recipe for Chocolate Brownies appearing in the Fanny Farmer Boston Cooking School cook book!

The next issue is Clafoutis, this again is not English ( Limousin France mid 19th Century) the first time I heard of Clafoutis was when our Belgian au pair gave me her family cookbook, in which there was a recipe for Clafoutis, which is my Go To recipe even today. Traditionally it is made with unpitted Black cherries ( I always use pitted cherries, otherwise watch out for your teeth). It can of course be made with other fruits, but then it should be called Flaugnard.

Next up is Tiffin, Tiffin according to Hobson-Jobson the definite glossary of British India, Tiffin, was in Hindustani India, a verb meaning to take luncheon. Apparently the shorter form Tiff could mean a small drink. Hence, on page 90 of the English Heritage book, it is written that it became a No bake chocolate snack. Maybe so, I can not find a reference to this but the mistake in this recipe is that it says “ Preparation time 15 minutes, Cooking time 2 hours” you can be forgiven for misunderstanding, it should have said “ Refrigeration time 2 Hours “!

Looking through the book again, I can see that the following are included, Rock Cakes, Spotted Dick, Trifle ( though made with jelly/ jello, that is a No No in my book!) Ginger Drops ( not Ginger Snaps). So if you really want to bake some traditional recipes, it is worth a look, though I think it is much more fun to find some really old recipe books! I even have found one from my college days ! Another couple of other inclusions, which were regulars of our Sunday afternoon teas, were Butterfly cakes and Battenberg cake! Don’t know what they are?

So enough, is enough and onwards and upwards! A simple recipe that I have forgotten about, is Rice Pudding ! It was once a staple of family meals, not a savoury rice as we tend to eat today ( not sure that my mother knew about stir fried rice and such). My Mother in law certainly would have made this in large quantities for her 5 sons! And whenever it is in the menu at a restaurant ( rarely) he will have it! The last time was in Windermere, where we were for his birthday last year!

Rice pudding in the old fashioned way is Oh So easy, not labour intensive at all, simply follow a few steps, throw it in the oven and leave for 1/12- 2 Hours! Can be served with a fruit compote if you want to jazz it up, or with even more cream poured over !

  • 150 grms Pudding Rice
  • 100 grams sugar
  • 125 grms butter
  • 1 litre full fat milk
  • 150 mls thick cream
  • Grated nutmeg

Heat the oven to 120C ( fan)/140C or Gas #1.

Melt the butter, add the rice and sugar, stir until the rice swells a little. Add the milk, stir and then the cream, stir until a bit sticky. Pour into a baking dish and grate nutmeg over the top. Bake and EAT ( warm is best)!

Once more from La Belle France!

We have been having a SMASHING time here in the mountains and I do mean smashing! Not however in the sense of have fun ( though we have) but in the sense of smashing glass! The first to go were some Val St. Lambert glasses, the second just some Ikea ones and thirdly, totally my fault, a shelf in the refrigerator crashed, spilling pesto and tomato sauce everywhere! This was all exacerbated by having a stone floor and despite our best efforts, tiny slivers of glass keep on appearing, even after several days of diligent cleaning !

Meanwhile, the other day I decided we were going to have duck breasts marinated in Teriyaki Sauce, but unfortunately I didn’t have any, despite having all sorts of odds and ends. Never fear, as it is very easy to make it yourself ( obviously if you have the correct ingredients to hand!)

  • 1Cup of water
  • 1/2 cup soy sauce ( any kind will work)
  • 2+tablespoons of runny honey
  • 1/2 Teaspoons ginger powder or minced fresh ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
  • 1 Cup dark brown sugar
  • ( 2 tablespoons of cornstarch dissolved in 1/3 cup cold water)

Very simply tip all of the above into a saucepan and heat gently whilst stirring from time to time, OR put all into a microwave container, heat on high for one minute intervals , stir and repeat )until fairly thick. Leave to cool. Use as a marinade for whatever you need Teriyaki sauce for. Me? I used it to marinate duck breasts which we then grilled on a BBQ. I added to the sauce some cooked noodles, which were then tossed in a wok with some oriental type vegetables. The duck breasts were then cut and add to the above mixture. If you can get frozen oriental type veg, then dinner will take less time.

Next up was ice cream ! With 6 grandkids in the house it seemed appropriate! Himself, once upon a time was called the Ice Cream mouse! He had been known to snuggle up with the Great Dane called Freddy when everyone else slept and tuck into a 5 gallon tub of Peach ice cream that the kids had bought him for his birthday, but that was a long time ago , now it seems that he is more reticent about that particular indulgence!

So I made coconut ice cream, once again extremely easy if you own any sort of ice cream maker, but just a tad more time consuming if you don’t.

To make approximately 1 litre you will need

  • 3 large eggs
  • 100 grams caster sugar
  • 500 mls thick cream ( sometimes the large carton of cream is 600 mls, use that and less milk.
  • 250 mls full fat milk ( use half to mix with coconut powder if using)
  • Half a cup / 5 tablespoons of coconut milk powder OR 1/2 can of coconut milk cream

This is the cream base and is the basis for many ice cream flavours. Whisk the eggs together along with the sugar ( I use a food processor) and then add the cream and milk. Finally add the coconut, either the powder which has been dissolved or the canned coconut cream. Pour into your chosen method of freezing. Without an ice cream machine, pour into a polythene box, freeze for about 2 hours, then scrape out the semi frozen mixture into a bowl , whisk well and return to the freezer. At this semi frozen state it is possible to use some lolly pop moulds. The brand Lekué make some very nice ones.

On balance I think the coconut cream either from a can or a packet gives a better flavour than the powder.Coconut powder looks a bit like icing sugar !

Of course other flavours are available and the book which I really love is this one! Published by Ben and Jerry in 1987, long before they sold out to UNILEVER! I bought my first copy probably in 1987, but my second copy , which I now keep in France from the Oxfam bookstore!

SUMMERTIME AND THE LIVING IS EASY!

FeaturedSUMMERTIME AND THE LIVING IS EASY!

As it was said in Gershwins song from the Opera Porgy and Bess.

I can imagine that my mother in law did not think this, having 6 children ( 5 boys) around during the summer school holidays, no TV, no electronics of any sort( maybe a good thing), not much money, but a punch bag and a soccer ball always came in handy!

We have decamped to the French Alps for the summer, exchanging the heat of London for, so far the damp and miserable mountains! However we are excited as over the next 5-6 weeks we will have 6 grandchildren descend upon us, ranging in age from 2 1/2 ( aka the Gorgeous George) to an almost 18 year old ! This will be FUN !

The first thing the eldest asked upon arrival, Please can we cook dinner whilst here? And the answer was OF COURSE!

Just because there is a house full of people, it doesn’t necessarily mean hours in the kitchen, even though it’s my happy place. Quick simple shortcuts help along the way. A quick Lemon Mousse made with Lemon Curd or a quick Chocolate Mousse or Meringues made very quickly in the microwave, transform into an Eton Mess. Jennies Cheeses, a throwback to our 13 years in Brussels, a simple but delicious starter, just thrown together with bits of cheese from your refrigerator!And of course, it is summer, something on the BBQ or if it is very dull a quick Stir Fry, something the kids can do easily. A couple of years ago Sam made IKEA meatballs ( yes I have the recipe) and Tess loves to bake, so can’t wait for her to arrive.

Today we went into town , a bit of a joke really as we all live in London. Normally we are all active, various lakes ( water bouncy castles) paddle boarding, beckon as well as paragliding and mountain biking. They have loved paragliding but were least keen on the mountain biking! But, as it is still dull and bordering on chilly it was time to visit the “Posh” café in Les Gets. The boys chose either a Lemon Meringue Pie or Coupe Glacées! The eldest chose the Coupe Glacée Rose whilst the youngest the Lemon Meringue Pie.

Tonight for dinner we are having Fajitas, a bit lacking on some ingredients, such as coriander,or spring onions to make a Salsa, and forget the Guacamole, the Avocados are still rock hard, but we do have some wraps which will substitute for tortillas! We will survive! I am using Onglet, which is the French basically for Hanger steak, a very common cut of beef in France but less so in the UK. ( but I do have a source!)

I am sure I have mentioned Microwave meringue before but if not here is the recipe again.

  • 1 egg white lightly beaten
  • 300 grams icing sugar sifted

And that is all you need. Mix together the icing sugar and the egg white until is fully amalgamated. Tip onto a work top and knead until it forms a ball. Cut into 6 pieces and roll each one into a ball ( use extra icing sugar to roll them in, to prevent them sticking. Pit a sheet of greaseproof paper on a plate and place 3 of the balls evenly spaced. Place in the microwave and cook on high for just ONE & HALF minutes. If your microwave has a light, peep whilst they are cooking! For the kids it is like magic!

And that’s it, remove from Microwave, put on a cooling tray and repeat. Use cream or ice cream to sandwich then together to make mini Pavlovas, or then to crush along with some strawberries/ raspberries and make Eton Mess, which can be with just cream or Ice Cream or be indulgent and have both.

Moving onto Lemon Curd. What is Lemon Curd? Well it could be called Orange curd, or grapefruit curd, or Lime curd, all of which can be used. In the 19 th century and even later it was always home made and in small quantities as it has a short shelf life, which has improved somewhat by refrigeration. Traditionally it was served with scones for afternoon tea. Of course today it is possible to buy commercially made Lemon curd but naturally contains preservatives. Lemon curd which is what I tend to make is good with plain yoghurt ( I make my own) ice cream , sandwiched with cream or ice cream in the above Pavlova or included in the Eton Mess!

Fruit curd is really easy to make, I have made it in the microwave but honestly it is just as easy on the stove top and easier than forever opening the microwave door and giving it another stir!

  • 2 whole eggs plus 2 egg yolks
  • 2 oz unsalted butter
  • Zest and juice ( no pips please) 5 lemons
  • 4 oz /113 grms ( approximate) caster sugar

Beat the eggs together, pour into a saucepan, preferably a non stick one, add the other ingredients and make sure you have no pips. Heat gently stirring now and again. In about 5 minutes, it will have thickens into a fairly thick consistency. Pour into sterilised jars, unfortunately it only makes enough for 2-3 jars ( approx 200 gram jars.) I have made more from time to time by doubling the quantity, and keeping on jar in the refrigerator and popping the others into the freezer.Small Kilner type jars are Perfect!

AND finally for today, a very simple chocolate mousse! Again not for the faint hearted or for those who are watching their diet ( aren’t we all) but something simple to make and again something the kids can make!

  • 200 grams dark chocolate ( chopped up) or chocolate chips but good quality chocolate.
  • 400 grams whipping cream or extra thick cream

Very simply, heat 100 grams of the cream in the microwave for one minute. Add the chocolate and stir until it is melted. Whip the cream until it is stiff and carefully fold in the cream/ chocolate mix. Pour/spoon into sundae glasses or jars, refrigerate until ready to eat. Garnish with maybe raspberries!

And although I said finally, I had forgotten about Ice Cream ! The boys made ice cream and again very simple to make, even easier with an ice cream machine. I have at home an ice cream machine with a built in freezer component, but these are fairly pricey, and I have here simple machine which involves freezing the bowl of the machine for at least 24 hours before hand. Of course this means that you need sufficient freezer space to enable you to do this! The third option is very simply to make the ice cream, pour into a freezer safe container and stir the mixture from time to time during the freezing process. This makes an acceptable ice cream but will be grainier than normal.

  • 3 large eggs
  • 3/4 cup caster sugar
  • 2 cups ( approximately 500 mls) heavy / thick/ whipping cream
  • 200 mls milk
  • 2teaspoons vanilla

Whisk the eggs until light and fluffy, whisk in the sugar and whisk until blended. Add everything else blend well. Pour into the receptacle you are using and freeze. The method using a container that has been in the freezer for 24 hours works well, as it then has a whisk attachment and churns into ice cream in about 35 minutes!

And as Porky Pig says “ Th-th-that’s all Folks! And for now it is Bonne Appétit!

The Dinner Party ( that didn’t happen)

We were having friends over for dinner, ex Belgium, current Belgium and us ( also ex Belgium) so a mini gathering of friends who had all lived in Belgium. Everything was planned, except, Himself went into hospital. Ok it was a planned intervention and he insisted that it would be OK even though it was an overnighter! I was sceptical, willowy brunette was sceptical, but himself not so!

Consequently when he had not been discharged by 4 pm on the Sunday afternoon , dinner finally had to be cancelled. Of course everything had already been done, food already to go and table set. Hence, we have been eating said food this week, or what could be frozen, went into the freezer.

So what were we going to eat. Starters was Asparagus, English of course . There is always a buzz around the English Asparagus season, which traditionally runs from St. George’s day ( patron saint of England) April 23 rd to the Summer Solstice, June 21 st. Other countries also have their own traditional regarding Asparagus, for example in Southern Germany, it is white asparagus that is very popular ( the season ends on June 24 th) and in many restaurants, they insist that every dish on the menu comes with Asparagus . Belgium and Holland also have a long history of a love affair with white asparagus, but for the English it has to be green.

I decided to keep the menu fairly simple so the Asparagus was going to be served “Au Mimosa“, which is very simply, steamed asparagus with eggs and oil. I used soft boiled eggs cut into quarters and / chopped soft boiled eggs, after all mimosas are small yellow flowers. I also used some Yuzu, as garnish and some pomegranate dressing on top of the oil ( I used avocado oil) . I also steamed my asparagus in the microwave, using the Lekué container. It only took 2 1/2 minutes on high to steam my bunch of asparagus.

The main course was Bourride, which is one of the great dishes of Provence.There are of course many ways of serving it and as it is traditionally from Provence it has to be Fish, though I have made it with Chicken which works just as well, and always finished with wonderful Aioli ( basically garlic mayonnaise). The recipe for both versions will be on the next blog ( I have already frozen it).

For dessert I made a Fool! This is a very English dessert and normally made with custard ( for me that is too close for comfort to Trifle). I made mine with Rhubarb, Mascarpone and thick cream. This can be started ahead of time as the rhubarb has to cook and then cool.

To make enough for 6

  • About a kilo of rhubarb, preferably thinner stalks and the redder the better.
  • Zest of 2 oranges and also their juice
  • 40z of caster sugar
  • A sprinkle of Star Anise powder ( optional)
  • 250 grm mascarpone at room temperature
  • 300 mls thick cream
  • Tabspoon caster sugar
  • 1 tsp vanilla essence

Heat the oven to 170C ( fan).

Cut the rhubarb into chunks and put onto a baking tray, along with the orange zest, orange juice, sugar and star anise. Bake for about 30 minutes until the rhubarb is soft. Remove from oven and leave to cool.

Whip the cream ( do not make too stiff) , stir in the mascarpone, sugar and vanilla.

When the rhubarb is cooled stir it into the cream mixture, and let it break up into the cream, stir so that it is evenly distributed.

Put into some sort of serving dishes ( I used brandy glasses) and garnish as you like. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

I went into one of our local Indian grocery stores the other day and found some dried orange zest always useful as it could be used on this dish or soaked to make it soft. Other goodies included ready made dried Fried Onions and Bombay Mix.

And finally, as I had a slight excess of asparagus, I made a quiche and an omelette, for both one can be creative. For the quiche I add cooked stem broccoli and defrosted frozen peas and then used the same extras for the omelette.

Not much cooking going on !

For the last few weeks at least there has not been much cooking, though some cooking, of course, some experimentation , some almost disaster, and some eating, but good and very special eating.

We decamped to Normandy for a long weekend. Left London at 5 am, Mr.Waze directed us down through south London ( normally to be avoided because of congestion but at 5 am, a breeze!) onto Le Shuttle ( aka the Channel Tunnel). We both asked the question “ How many times have we crossed this bit of water”? I wish we could back calculate, 50 plus years! For me it started during college days, working for the RAC ( a members club which supported their members driving to what we called The Continent) I went to France every day, meeted and greeted the members, bought my French bread and returned! What an easy job that was !

However, Himself thought it a good idea to have a little Jolly in Normandy, where we once lived ( a lifetime ago). He booked it all including a Michelin starred restaurant and also at the oldest restaurant in France, La Couronne, founded in 1345! It overlooks la Place du Vieux Marché , which is where Joan of Arc was executed in 1431, in Rouen.

A market is still held there but under the overhangs of the ( to my mind at least, ugly) Joan of Arc church, which takes up the whole square.

We ate in a very small Michelin starred restaurant, called L’Odas, it had maybe only 18 covers inside ( a few more out but of course weather dependent). All of the tables had a view of the kitchen and apart from deciding between 3,5,or7 courses, that was it, the kitchen decided on the menu and so we sat there and were fed! We chose the 7 course but not with Lobster, as himself is less than keen! The ingredients for our dinner were as far as possible locally sourced, I will included some photos, as it was a beautiful dinner both in appearance and in taste.

After this wonderful dinner, where they even gave me a birthday dessert and candle , we spent the following day wandering around the Normand countryside, ( always beautiful in the sunshine ) .

We found where we had lived , the hotel owned by the refinery ( now a Best Western) the refinery which is now huge, and the car ferry across the Seine, still running , so of course we had to go on it! We wandered over to Pont Audemer a small town I went to every Friday, Market day ! Nothing has changed, some of the shops, one could be forgiven that we were still in the 1950’s! Fashionista’s certainly not !

Back to Rouen for dinner. We arrived on time and Madam who must have been close to 100, in her Chanel-esq baby blue mini skirt suit along with the 6 “ stilettos, tottered up the rickety stairs in front of us! I commented that she got plenty of exercise with those stairs, her snooty reply was “ Moi, je ne suis Jamais allé à une sale de sport! “ ( she has never been to a gym!)

Our dinner was nice, for me the best part was the Fois Gras, it was yummy indeed, but the Riz de veau was interesting but not as described on the menu. The real interesting part was the couple on the adjacent table ordering the specialty of the house and with the English translation was The Genuine Squized Duck ( and not that is not a spelling mistake)

In fact it is a Pressed Duck, but is often done table side and became very popular in the UK during the Edwardian era. The duck is partly cooked, the breasts served and then the rest of it is put into a Duck Press to extract all of the blood and juices from the carcass. Then all of that is combined with various other ingredients including Cognac ( or Calvados) and Madeira to make a rich sauce. I am sure it is lovely but I was not tempted to try it! Very elaborate and a lot of it! The most interesting part though is the Duck Press! I DONT HAVE ONE!

Meanwhile back at base I made a spinach Swiss Roll, I had been wanting to make this for a long time and as we were having guests for dinner decided that now was the time.

It looks amazing and is very easy to make and the bonus is it can be made head of time and frozen ! What’s not to like?

  • A packet fresh cleaned spinach (+/-250 grams
  • 5O grams herbs, such as basil, dill coriander
  • Pinch salt
  • 4 large eggs, separated
  • 40 grams plain flour
  • Tsp baking powder
  • 200 grams of fish, maybe hot smoked salmon, trout, mackerel, or just smoked salmon.
  • 250 grams full fat cream cheese
  • 2 tsp of rose harissa ( optional)
  • Heat the oven to 170 fan/ 180
  • Pop the spinach still in the bag onto a microwave and cook on high for about 3 minutes. Chop the herbs. Empty the spinach into a colander and press out the liquid, add the herbs and mix. Line a baking tray with either greaseproof paper. Or oven proof cling film ( I use cling film as it is easy to mould into the pan).
  • When the spinach has cooled put into a blender along with the egg yolks, salt, herbs, flour and baking powder. Process until it is smooth.
  • Meanwhile whisk the egg whites until very stiff and fold them into the spinach mixture. Tip this into the tin and spread out gently to cover the whole pan.Bake for about 10-12 minutes.
  • In the meantime put your filling ingredients into a blender along with the cream cheese. Mix well, taste add some salt and maybe a drop or two of lemon juice and the rose harissa if using.
  • Tip the CAKE out carefully onto a cooling tray/ rack. When cool spread the filling over the sponge and roll it up starting at one of the short ends, so that you have what looks like a green Swiss Roll !
  • Now if you want to, wrap it in cling film and a polythene bag and freeze. I wouldn’t freeze it long term but good for a week or two.
  • To serve, cut into slices, garnish and I made a horseradish cream by adding a tsp of white wine, a tsp of Dijon mustard, a dollop of cream and some lemon juice to 3 tablespoons of creamed horseradish. Of course you could just use creamed horseradish straight from a jar!

TATIN ( and not the Crown Jewels)

Maybe not everyone will have heard of Tarte Tatin, but in the francophone world it usually means basically a posh Apple Tart, almost an upside down rich apple tart. But with everything nowadays, there are many variations on a theme and a couple of years ago I made an onion one, and also a shallot version.

However, the other day I went to an exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in central London to see, not the Crown Jewels but the Cartier Exhibition, most of which I did not covet, I certainly do not go to events that require a tiara and as beautiful as the serpent necklace was, I could not envisage wearing something that had 2,473 diamonds! Apart from anything else, would be just a tad scratchy ( and besides going on the tube wearing it, would not be a good idea)!

I digress, my friend and I had lunch in the members dining room room ( an oasis of calm) where I had what was basically a tomato tart Tatin with rocket salad. And so I decided to make one at home!

For the onion and tomato Tatin it easy to cheat by using ready made pastry but for the Apple version I would seriously recommend that you make your own. Apart from the wonderful juices soaking into a rich buttery pastry, it doesn’t matter if the pastry doesn’t look good, simply because the apples are on top!

I always use an absolute idiot proof recipe for pastry, many many thanks to Simca, it was her that basically said throw it all into a food processor , but when I think about it , when I was teaching in the most dreadful school in Vauxhall London, Blue Band margarine came out with “All in one” method (and I still have the pamphlet ), but back then there were no food processors or Thermomixers, just do it all by hand !

For the pastry (Sweet short pastry)

  • 2 cups ( 250grams) Plain flour
  • 2 tablespoons of caster sugar ( omit the sugar for savoury dishes)
  • 140 grams unsalted butter ( cut into chunks)
  • 1teaspoon baking powder
  • 6 tablespoons Cream beaten with the yolk of an egg
  • Put the dry ingredients into a food processor along with the butter and and blend on high for a couple of minutes ( you can rub the butter in by hand ) until it looks like very fine breadcrumbs DO NOT OVER PROCESS!
  • With the machine running, slowly pour in the cream/ egg mixture, it will quickly form a ball , which will go Bump Bump ! Switch off. Tip out onto a floured surface and knead gently to incorporate all of the flour. If a tad dry, add a few drops of cream, the dough should be soft but not wet and all of the flour mixed in. The dough can be used straight away but might benefit from being put into a plastic bag and refrigerated for half an hour or so.
  • This pastry, omitting the sugar can be used for both the Tomato and onion tart.

To make a Tarte Tatin, preheat the oven to200 c/400f/ gas 6.

Peel and core 6 eating apples ( Note NOT Cooking Apples) and cut them into quarters.

Melt about 100 grams of butter ( I use unsalted) in a heavy pan ( I use a cast iron frying pan, a shallow LeCreuset pan would work well. Add about 100 grams caster sugar and on a medium heat let the sugar melt into the butter and heat gently so that it caramelises, take care not to let it burn. Add the apples and arrange them carefully, as it is an upside down tart, so they will become the top. pack them in tightly. cook over a medium heat for about 15-20 minutes, shaking now and again so that they don’t burn.

Roll out the pastry on a floured surface so that it is roughly the size of your pan ( slightly larger) . Place the pastry on top of the apples and tuck in the edges. prick with a fork a few time and bake for about 20 minutes until the pastry is golden.

Remove from the oven, leave to cool for about 10 minutes, run a knife around the edge of the tart and invert it onto a round serving plate/ dish. Serve warm along with ice cream/ cream or crème fraiche. YUMMY.

For a Tomato tart, you will need a quantity of pastry and for this to make life easy you can use ready made. You can make a large one but I like to make individual ones.

Start by making some Confit tomatoes and this will make more than you will need. Preheat the oven to 110C or 90 C fan oven. Arrange a kilo of tomatoes which have been cut in half, cut side up. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add some squashed cloves of garlic then pour over 200 mls olive oil and a tablespoon of balsamic vinegar. Cook for about 2 hours. Pack into sterilised jars, along with any juices and the olive oil. Cool and store in the refrigerator.

However, to make life even easier, and especially if you are only going to make a couple of little tarts and therefore a Kilo of tomatoes is too much, simply pore some olive oil ( enough to cover the bottom of the pan) heat until sizzling, add the tomatoes cut in half, cut side down. Reduce heat and cook very very gently until cooked.

Rollout a quantity of pastry and line a tart pan(s) which has been greased. Spread over the pastry a quantity of either Tapenade, or roasted red pepper paste ( both were bought) and top this with the tomatoes. Add a sprinkle of Herbes ’ de Provence, a few sprigs of thyme. Bake at 200 C/ 180 fan for about 15-20 minutes for individual tarted or marginally longer for a large tart.

For the onion tart, simply gently partly cook the onions in some butter ( either shallots or brown skin onions cut in half). In the bottom of the pastry case some onion chutney as a basis for the onions to sit on.Top this with the partially cooked onions and bake as above.

Serve warm or at room temperature with a little green salad.