In the Mountains

In the Mountains

We decamped to the Mountains, where the temperature -16 C( 3F). We decamp generally this time of year, cold and damp, golf course closed in the UK, for Himself to ski ( I have long abandoned this sport, 5 knee surgeries is enough for me, after all I am not Lindsey Vonn). However, this year he is Hopalong, having broken his leg, where else but on the golf course! So being confined to barracks we are doing jobs sorting out stuff which accumulates and having friends and family to stay.

Although there are some very good restaurants in the mountains, they are few and far between. Mostly they cater for the tourist trade, ranging from Crêpes ( savoury and sweet), and to all things Cheese and Ham. The most common being, Fondue, Raclette, Tartiflette, Cheese plates with charcuterie, Berthod ( smaller version Tartiflette), and not forgetting Burger Savoyard.

In our village ( up a mere 7 hairpins) we are lucky to have a small café. Apparently once upon a time there were 5 cafés, presumably as it was a farming community, with less ready access to other parts of the mountain. Even now, the cows are driven up the mountain, in early summer to the summer pastures where the cow herders sleep in primitive accommodation to tend to their herd!And down again in the autumn!

In town however, there are now numerous bars and restaurants, but apart from Pizza it is mostly local fare. There was, a good ( sadly no longer)restaurant that looked more like an antique shop than a restaurant. It was run by Madam and her husband. But call to make a reservation and madam might say” oh I haven’t decided if I will be open tomorrow, please call in the morning “ And now the morning hasn’t come! Now. Chocolate Shop!

We usually make little side trips whilst in the mountains, to the local markets, the best of the area are Chamonix on a Saturday morning and the Annecy, they have a food market on most days, but Sunday is by far the most popular, with general items as well as food. Usually there is someone demonstrating the latest ( probably useless) plastic kitchen gadgets. In the summer the place is absolutely heaving, always made considerably worse by baby buggies ( I feel sorry for the little ones surrounded by the masses) and even worse are the designer dogs, which are in danger of being trodden upon ! But fun none the less!

These markets are definitely the place to buy local products, especially cheese and charcuterie, along with local fruit and vegetables.

Onto, Tartiflette ,apparently, it was not always an alpine dish, or indeed it was revived in the 1980’s by the promotional efforts of the Syndicat Interporfessional du Reblochon, to increase the sales of Reblochon .Tartiflette is made with potatoes, cheese garlic, onions, white wine and Reblochon cheese. Variations on this Croziflette, which is made with Crozets de Savoie ( small buckwheat pasta instead of potatoes) , Morbiflette, made with Morbier Cheese and Tarniflette which is made with Tarn Raclette cheese.

Tartiflette is a very satisfying and filling dish, and also very calorific, which is why I almost never eat it, but himself is a lover and so, when in the mountains, eat what the locals eat.

  • kg Charlotte or other firm salad potatoes
  • 2 tbs olive oil ( or duck fat)
  • 200 g smoked bacon lardons
  • 1 large onion sliced
  • 1 garlic clove finely chopped
  • 100 ml dry white wine
  • 200 ml double cream
  • 300 g Reblochon cheese cut into slices, but leaving the the rind intact on som rod the slices as this forms the crust on top of the dish
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make

  • Preheat oven to 200 C/400F/Gas 7
  • Peel the potatoes a wash, put in pan and bring to the boil, simmer gently for 10 – 15 minutes or until they are cooked but still firm. Drain.
  • Fry the bacon lardons, onion and garlic until golden-brown. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and continue to cook until most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat and stir in the cream.
  • Slice the potatoes thinly and put a layer of them in a greased oven proof dish. Layer this with the rindless cheese, onion/garlic/cream mix along with the remaining potatoes and cheese with rind. Season with salt and pepper
  • Bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes or until the cheese is golden-brown and bubbling.

So the weather has been dire ( in the UK and Europe nothing but rain, the eastern Seaboard of the USA frozen, but the Rockies not much snow) . Himself can still not hit the slopes so we headed off to the Sun, golf and beach.