When is a Steak, not a Steak? When it’s Tar Tare!!

Himself many many years ago, a recently graduated PhD Chemist was off to work at the Technical University in ( West Berlin). I put West Berlin, because then Germany was still divided into West and East and for an impoverished, about to be an employee in Berlin, it meant taking a train across the East, through various check points and after many hours of travelling arrive at midnight at the Hauptbahnhoff in West Berlin. This poor ( monetarily poor) ex student was famished but the station cafe was still open! Alas back then his command of the German language was ropey to say the least but he spied upon the menu, Steak Tartare. I guess he could be forgiven for not knowing exactly what he was about to be served, what could be wrong with Steak? Well everything it would seem, because to the initiated, Steak Tartare is in fact raw steak !

Nowadays, he is anything but squeamish, eating and relishing in anything and everything, from Aligator to chicken feet, pigs trotters to 1,000 year old eggs and brains to pigs spleens! You name it he has eaten it!

But today we are talking about Steak Tartare, or as in Belgium it is called Fillet Américain, Same food, slightly different technique.

So let’s start from the beginning. No cooking is involved ( unless you want potato beignets or Frites as well ). Buy the best steak, ( usually fillet) that you can afford, this will be super lean. Providing you buy it from a reputable butcher the meat will be perfectly safe to eat raw, especially as it will be mixed with ingredients that will kill off any bugs!

In principle, minced or pre-chopped meat should not be used, as who knows how long it has been sitting there on the shelf! However, in some French and Belgian butchers they have a mincer dedicated to mincing beef for Steak Tartare, but I think will still opt for chopping it by hand.

To facilitate your chopping, put the meat in the freezer for about an hour beforehand , so much easier to handle and I do the same with the steak, when I cut the meat for Shabu Shabu.( Japanese hot pot).

Most restaurants will serve steak Tartare pre-created with all the trimmings added in with just the egg yolk sitting on top, ready for the diner to mix it in. However, for the home cook it is perhaps best to make and mix in the dressing beforehand, but then again, just for fun, save the egg yolk to go on top.

  • For 2 people
  • 200 gr fillet steak
  • 1shallot finely chopped
  • 2-3 cornichons ( baby gherkins) chopped
  • 1-2 teaspoon small capers chopped
  • 1tablespoon smooth Dijon mustard
  • 2 tablespoons good olive oil or nut oil
  • 2 drained anchovy fillets , chopped and smushed
  • 1tsp tomato paste
  • Juice of half lemon
  • 1 tablespoon mayonnaise
  • 1 egg yolk for the dressing and 2 egg yolks to sit on top
  • A squirt of sriracha if you like it a little spicy
  • A few leaves, cress, rocket , watercress to garnish
  • Serve with sour dough toast/ French fries/ potato beignets

Make the dressing first of all , by whisking one egg yolk with the mustard and when throughly mixed trickle in the oil whilst still whisking. Add the anchovies and other ingredients and mix well, taste, add some salt if necessary and the juice of half a lemon. Put to one side.

Remove the meat from the freezer, thinly slice and then cut into thin chunks. Chop, chop chop, until the consistency suits you and then mix the meat with the dressing.

Using pastry cutters, or little flan rings, shape the meat into tidy rounds. Drizzle a little oil around and put the egg yolk neatly on top and garnish!

Potatoes and ICE CREAM

Here we are on the French Alps and am actually really shocked at the price of potatoes! I know we are on the Alps and transportation costs are higher, but having compared my local supermarket which I have to say is definitely not my favourite but it is part of the largest French chain, CARREFOUR. It now owns what was GB supermarket in Belgium as well. I have just checked and compared prices in Belgium, France and the UK, and despite everything the UK is by far the cheapest and this is buying from WAITROSE the upmarket store.

In France the cheapest was £1.55 a kilo, in Belgium £1.96 and in the UK £ 1.05 even buying Duchy ( King Charles organic) was only £1.30!

Given that much of the world depends on upon potatoes and Belgium and France are the best at French Fries ( Chips in UK English) I just had to wonder why? I actually do not have the answer ( Yet)!

Back to the Alps. Weather wise it has been very mixed. One day 37 C and the next much much cooler, still better than last year when it reached 41C.

We have several visitors this summer, including our 9 year old grandson who somehow managed to have an ice cream everyday, to Americans from Texas, who had hamburgers and Ice-cream, to In Laws who taught me a new ice lolly which only counts 99 calories.

Of course I make my own nearly all of the time, but the Ice Cream Mouse, ( Himself) isn’t nearly as active these days, but nonetheless he offered some to the in-laws, only to find, he had already eaten it all !

My latest rendition is Peanut butter Ice cream and is really simple to make.

  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup sugar ( 4 ounces). ( I always use caster as it is finer) more if you have a really sweet tooth.
  • 450 mls thick cream (2 US cups)
  • 225 mls full fat milk ( 1 US cup)
  • 1/3 cup smooth peanut butter and if you want some crunch, roast some peanuts or buy them salted or plain and chopped and add them towards the end.
  • whisk the eggs together until light and fluffy, whisk in the sugar and peanut butter until blended and then pour in the cream and milk and whisk again until fully mixed.
  • If you have an ice cream machine, then very simply follow the instructions otherwise pour into a container that has previously been placed into the freezer. Freezer for a couple of hours and give it a stir. Repeat until fairly stiff and then add the extra chopped nuts if desired.
  • Summer time definitely means ice cream but also fruits, which also means fruit ice cream. Using the basic above ( omitting the peanut butter) it is possible to to have a smorgasbord of ice cream flavours.
  • Bananas and Strawberries…… mashed strawberries mixed with mashed strawberries, taste before freezing to check on the sugar, you might need more! ….a mixture made in heaven.
  • Mango, smush very ripe mango, ad the juice of half a lemon and purée it. Make the plain ice cream, freeze a bit and then add the fruit, taste for sweetness, stir well, it will need stirring a couple of times.
  • Kiwi, what about Kiwi? If you love Kiwis then this is for you. Peel and purée 5 ripe kiwis, stir in a tablespoon of sugar, refrigerate whilst you make the vanilla base. When ready add the kiwi mixture and again freeze and stir.
  • The freezing and stirring is only if you do not have an Ice Cream machine

I have in London and have had ever since moving back from the USA many times years ago an Ice Cream machine, with a built in compressor but here in France I have to use the freezing/ stirring method of making Ice Cream. I did however buy a cheap ice cream maker. ( this is where you freeze the container first of all, I found it a real pain, especially as when theoretically the ice cream was ready ( soft serve) it simply poured out all over the counter top! Soft Serve indeed!